Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Talking Long Hair With Trevor Sorbie

 Trevor Sorbie
"My long hair is me now,
the roots were yesterday,
the ends were many yesterdays
but it will still be my tomorrow."

Trevor Sorbie is a hairdressing legend known for introducing the world to such short styles as The Wedge, The Scrunch, and The Chop. It may seem ironic, then, that he is also one of the few top stylists who has wholeheartedly embraced long hair.

With a desire to help women treat their long locks right, Sorbie launched a line of long hair products in 2002.

Longhairlovers had the opportunity to submit several email questions to Sorbie about his long hair line.

LHL: Why have you chosen to embrace long-haired clients when so many stylists shy away from them?

TS: I know women have an on-going love-affair with their long hair and if it is stressed in any way, then so are they. Long hair is only beautiful if it is shiny, lustrous, soft and silky. I think long hair is beautiful and should be kept healthy. What many women don’t understand is the longest part of their hair is the oldest and therefore needs a lot more conditioning.

LHL: How did you first become aware of 18 MEA (18 methyl eicosanoic acid) as an essential ingredient for long hair care?

TS: The 18MEA formula was introduced to us by Stuart Long who is the Scientific Formulator at Boots. I believed in the formulation immediately and it was licensed to Trevor Sorbie products for one year which meant nobody else could use it.

LHL: How is long, curly hair different from long, straight hair and how do your products address these needs?

TS: Curly hair can get a lot drier than straight hair. The long curly hair range includes more of the moisturising ingredient 18MEA. The breakthrough ingredient 18MEA is a lipid found naturally in hair. It works by forming a microscopic layer on the outside of each cuticle to protect the surface and give hair its smoothness and ‘slip’. This maximises shine and adds a protective layer to minimise future damage and actually JB halt the ageing process. This clever lipid targets and repairs each hair, attaching itself to the damaged areas, restoring the surface whilst boosting shine in a natural, long-lasting way.

LHL: How did you develop your line of long hair brushes?

TS: Our long haired clients kept asking if we had something special for their hair. We developed the range in consultation with a designer to manufacture brushes that would easily glide through long hair and remove tangles with the minimum stress to the hair shaft.

LHL: Why do long-haired women require special brushes?

TS: Long hair is easily damaged but brushes and combs with widely spaced teeth minimise damage.
The paddle brush, which is flat and wide, is best for brushing out long hair and for creating straight, smooth styles Think of a classic one-length style. It also gives you a mini scalp massage.

LHL: Please share any other thoughts and advice you have for women with long hair and women who are growing out their hair.

TS: Hair is different ages along its length, the longer the hair, the older it is. Long hair suffers with age – even shoulder length locks are 2-3 years old - and during its life will have been subjected to a combination of stresses including detergent and mechanical damage, heat styling, chemical and environmental assault. These elements all combine to damage or destroy the natural 18 MEA leading to dull, lack-lustre hair. As each strand of hair is stripped bare of this vital protective layer of 18MEA it is laid open to further damage which can lead to hair fatality – split ends and breakage.

If you have long hair and like to style it poker straight you must ensure that you shampoo and condition your hair with products that are specially formulated to take extra care of long hair.

Shampoo and condition making sure you rinse hair thoroughly. Gently blot hair dry with a towel, do not rub or you will tangle and could damage the cuticle. Now apply Straightening Balm for Styling Hair with 18MEA. Use 2-4 pumps, depending on hair length, spread into palms and distribute from roots to tips. Do not rinse out. Now, working on a section a time, blow dry with barrel of dryer pointing downwards—this flattens the cuticle and promotes shine. As each section is dried, switch to cool shot to set the hair into shape.

Once all hair is dry, take small sections and run straightening irons down hair. If you have hair that is long but wild and curly you can maximise curls by cutting the hair in long layers which will eliminates weight and make styling easier. Always use a moisturising shampoo and conditioner which will infuse each strand with moisture. Remember to rinse shampoo clean away as residues can drag curls down. To style, apply a Curl Cream, working a generous amount through hair from roots to tips. Either leave curls to dry naturally or use a diffuser on a low heat and speed setting.

Trim your hair often as damage to your hair will move up from the ends and the only way to stop the damage in its tracks is to remove it as soon as it happens. Trim hair a half inch every month.
Be gentle with your hair when it is wet. Don't rub your hair vigorously with a towel, gently squeeze the towel down the length of your hair. Comb your hair to ensure all knots have been removed before shampooing.

Deep condition your hair at least monthly, even if it's in good shape this will help keep it that way. If your hair is dry or damaged, deep condition weekly. Hot oil treatments are a good alternative for very dry hair or for extra.

Born in Scotland in 1949, Trevor Sorbie learned barbering from his father. His career path took him to Vidal Sassoon in London where he eventually became the Artistic Director. After working as a stylist and session hairdresser at Toni & Guy and John Frieda, Sorbie opened his own salon in 1979. He has since been named British Hairdresser of the Year (1985, 1991 and 1992), has created his own hair care line and opened a second salon in Covent Garden, London.
To learn more or to purchase products, visit TrevorSorbie.com.

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