Talking Long Hair With Trevor Sorbie

 

"My long hair is me now,
the roots were yesterday,
the ends were many yesterdays
but it will still be my tomorrow."
-TrevorSorbie.com

Trevor Sorbie is a hairdressing legend known for introducing the world to such short styles as The Wedge, The Scrunch, and The Chop. It may seem ironic, then, that he is also one of the few top stylists who has wholeheartedly embraced long hair.

With a desire to help women treat their long locks right, Sorbie launched a line of long hair products in 2002.

Longhairlovers had the opportunity to submit several email questions to Sorbie about his long hair line.

LHL: Why have you chosen to embrace long-haired clients when so many stylists shy away from them?

TS: I know women have an on-going love-affair with their long hair and if it is stressed in any way, then so are they. Long hair is only beautiful if it is shiny, lustrous, soft and silky. I think long hair is beautiful and should be kept healthy. What many women don’t understand is the longest part of their hair is the oldest and therefore needs a lot more conditioning.

LHL: How did you first become aware of 18 MEA (18 methyl eicosanoic acid) as an essential ingredient for long hair care?

TS: The 18MEA formula was introduced to us by Stuart Long who is the Scientific Formulator at Boots. I believed in the formulation immediately and it was licensed to Trevor Sorbie products for one year which meant nobody else could use it.

LHL: How is long, curly hair different from long, straight hair and how do your products address these needs?

TS: Curly hair can get a lot drier than straight hair. The long curly hair range includes more of the moisturising ingredient 18MEA. The breakthrough ingredient 18MEA is a lipid found naturally in hair. It works by forming a microscopic layer on the outside of each cuticle to protect the surface and give hair its smoothness and ‘slip’. This maximises shine and adds a protective layer to minimise future damage and actually JB halt the ageing process. This clever lipid targets and repairs each hair, attaching itself to the damaged areas, restoring the surface whilst boosting shine in a natural, long-lasting way.

LHL: How did you develop your line of long hair brushes?

TS: Our long haired clients kept asking if we had something special for their hair. We developed the range in consultation with a designer to manufacture brushes that would easily glide through long hair and remove tangles with the minimum stress to the hair shaft.

LHL: Why do long-haired women require special brushes?

TS: Long hair is easily damaged but brushes and combs with widely spaced teeth minimise damage.
The paddle brush, which is flat and wide, is best for brushing out long hair and for creating straight, smooth styles Think of a classic one-length style. It also gives you a mini scalp massage.

LHL: Please share any other thoughts and advice you have for women with long hair and women who are growing out their hair.

TS: Hair is different ages along its length, the longer the hair, the older it is. Long hair suffers with age – even shoulder length locks are 2-3 years old - and during its life will have been subjected to a combination of stresses including detergent and mechanical damage, heat styling, chemical and environmental assault. These elements all combine to damage or destroy the natural 18 MEA leading to dull, lack-lustre hair. As each strand of hair is stripped bare of this vital protective layer of 18MEA it is laid open to further damage which can lead to hair fatality – split ends and breakage.

If you have long hair and like to style it poker straight you must ensure that you shampoo and condition your hair with products that are specially formulated to take extra care of long hair.

Shampoo and condition making sure you rinse hair thoroughly. Gently blot hair dry with a towel, do not rub or you will tangle and could damage the cuticle. Now apply Straightening Balm for Styling Hair with 18MEA. Use 2-4 pumps, depending on hair length, spread into palms and distribute from roots to tips. Do not rinse out. Now, working on a section a time, blow dry with barrel of dryer pointing downwards—this flattens the cuticle and promotes shine. As each section is dried, switch to cool shot to set the hair into shape.

Once all hair is dry, take small sections and run straightening irons down hair. If you have hair that is long but wild and curly you can maximise curls by cutting the hair in long layers which will eliminates weight and make styling easier. Always use a moisturising shampoo and conditioner which will infuse each strand with moisture. Remember to rinse shampoo clean away as residues can drag curls down. To style, apply a Curl Cream, working a generous amount through hair from roots to tips. Either leave curls to dry naturally or use a diffuser on a low heat and speed setting.

Trim your hair often as damage to your hair will move up from the ends and the only way to stop the damage in its tracks is to remove it as soon as it happens. Trim hair a half inch every month.
Be gentle with your hair when it is wet. Don't rub your hair vigorously with a towel, gently squeeze the towel down the length of your hair. Comb your hair to ensure all knots have been removed before shampooing.

Deep condition your hair at least monthly, even if it's in good shape this will help keep it that way. If your hair is dry or damaged, deep condition weekly. Hot oil treatments are a good alternative for very dry hair or for extra.

Born in Scotland in 1949, Trevor Sorbie learned barbering from his father. His career path took him to Vidal Sassoon in London where he eventually became the Artistic Director. After working as a stylist and session hairdresser at Toni & Guy and John Frieda, Sorbie opened his own salon in 1979. He has since been named British Hairdresser of the Year (1985, 1991 and 1992), has created his own hair care line and opened a second salon in Covent Garden, London.
To learn more or to purchase products, visit TrevorSorbie.com.

Springtime Changes

From Stylist Rex Dador and Colorist Michelle Vanceof Tom Brophy Salon 

Spring's longer days and warmer weather often prompt women to make a hairstyle and color change to usher in the new season. This Spring, fashion forecasters predict several new lengths for hair as well as more natural looking hair color.

According to Rex Dador, Stylist at Tom Brophy Salon in Beverly Hills, "Cuts are getting shorter--pixie length--like that of Rihanna or Victoria Beckham, and we will see lots of bobs such as Taraji P. Henson's graduated bob look at the 2009 Oscars.

"Bobs are timeless, versatile and can be easily modified from trendy to classic by cutting layers or leaving the hair one length." For long hair, Dador foresees fuller bangs or fringe.

"Jessica Alba wears this look on the March Elle magazine cover. Bangs add edge to long hair and they are cut much fuller this season."

Given the tight economy, Dador recommends finding ways to extend the life of a haircut. For example, he suggests asking your stylist for a complimentary bang trim in-between hair cuts.

"That way, you can go a bit longer without having your hair cut twice." Dador also recommends conditioning treatments for longer hair.

"Moisturizing treatments help to keep hair healthy by preventing split ends from traveling up the hair shaft. This extends the life of the hair cut, meaning less time and money in the salon."

According to Michelle Vance, Color Specialist at Tom Brophy Salon, "Spring is the time to stay away from very dark colors, and go lighter. Select colors that are bold but natural, such as the golden-beige tones Kate Winslet had at the Oscars.

"This Spring is all about looking natural and effortless, with blended color," Vance says. "For redheads, I recommend lots of copper tones, and for brunettes, lots of cool chocolate tones. To ensure natural results, make sure your colorist weaves the hair instead of slicing the sections."

To keep color maintenance costs in check, Vance recommends keeping hair optimally conditioned.

"The better condition your hair, the greater longevity of the color," she says. "In essence, less time and money spent in the salon." Vance recommends using products that contain UV & thermal protectants as the weather gets warmer in order to prolong hair color and prevent fading.

Finally, if budget allows, Vance recommends splurging on a longer-lasting, in-salon conditioning treatment.

"These conditioning hair treatments can further prolong hair color and minimize color fading. A customized treatment such as Collagen Hair Therapy offered at the Tom Brophy Salon is designed to restore and repair any type of damage, improve elasticity and strength from inside out."
__________

The Tom Brophy Salon offers a variety of specialized services including a three step hydrating treatment, scalp cleansing massage,  and straight perm/retexturizer. For more information call 310.858.8780 or visit http://www.tombrophyhair.com/.

Getting The Pirate Look with Martin Samuel

The hair design is critical because it is integral to the development of the character in a film." --Martin Samuel, Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean Chief Hairstylist.

 

Martin Samuel, Chief Hairstylist and Hair Designer for Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean trilogy talked with Longhairlovers about his styles for stars Johnny Depp, Keira Knightley and Naomi Harris.

LHL: Was working with Keira Knightley's hair extensions more challenging than working on hair that's naturally long?

MS: Yes. The shooting schedule was over a year and the hair extensions needed replacing quite often, as Kiera's hair grew down. Her hair also needed color touch-ups and I was continually replacing and renewing the extensions. I found the best shampoo and conditioner for Kiera to use to keep her extensions looking healthy and soft and easy to comb through was Karastase pink series. On set I used loads of Evian spray and Joico Integrity leave-in conditioner.

LHL: Any special styling considerations when working in the Caribbean climate's humidity?

MS: We shot on the water in ships. The actors' hair needed to look damp and tousled and the humid climate was perfect for that look.

LHL: Besides Joico Integrity and Kerastase Pink, did you have any other favorite styling products while making the movie?

MS: Yes, my favorite products included Joico Protect and Shine serum, Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Moisture Mist, SeaPlasma Re-hydrate, and Keihls Silk groom.

LHL: What challenges exist on a movie set that are different from in-salon work?

MS: Working in a salon, one sees one's client weekly or monthly. On the film set I am taking care of them daily so our relationships are much closer. In fact the hair trailer becomes somewhere they can completely relax away from the set. Also the continuity over a 12-month shooting schedule was quite a challenge as the actual story takes place over a much shorter period of time. We shot a lot out of sequence so keeping the actors in character was challenging.

Styling The Characters

For Johnny Depp's Captain Jack character, Samuel created critically acclaimed captivating look using beads, braids, hair and bandanas.

Keira Knightley's character Elizabeth has three new looks in the second movie, Dead Man's Chest. The first is an aristocratic upswept 1760s look for her wedding, which later becomes sensuously disheveled. Her hair is swept up onto the crown of her head and in clusters, which he softly waved around her face with a wedding veil fixed into the hair. Samuel used single bond, custom-made European quality extensions to achieve more length.

The next look is of Knightley as a boyish sailor with her hair cut short in front. To achieve this look, Samuel blended the short hair into the long hair. The short hair was swept forward and the long hair was drawn back into a single long braid and then wrapped in a black ribbon.

The final look is of Knightley as a very sexy female pirate. Using extensions, Samuel retained the natural movement by keeping the hair moisturized and free-flowing to look more adventurous. As part of this look, in certain scenes, the character dons a leather tricorn hat.
For Naomi Harris' character Tia Dalma, Samuel created a mystical, Medusa-like look that mixes braids, dreads, feathers and other adornments.

To render a whimsical, weather-beaten and grungy 1760s look on the Black Pearl Pirates, Samuel used wigs and hairpieces when the extra did not already have long hair. He decorated the hair with leather coins and other accessories that a pirate of that time would have collected from the raids of other ships.

For the Asian Pirates, Samuel researched at the Victoria and Albert museum in London and shaved the heads of the all the Asian actors to recreate an authentic Chinese period look. He used custom-made half wigs, which fit on the crown of the head, and the hair hangs down in a long, single thin braid.

Samuel conducted further extensive research for the design of the hair on the 1760s cannibals, relying on his best source -- National Geographic. It was a very specific look for which Samuel had all the actors' and extras' heads shaved and had very small wigs designed. He cut the hair on the wigs and then used various styling products to get the muddy and clay-like texture, which become a striking element in this movie.

Martin received a BAFTA and an Oscar nomination for his work in Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl. For more Pirates photos, visit Martin's web site at www.mesamuel.com. 

The Longhairlovers Interview With Ouidad

You have to be pretty well-known to be called by one name – take Madonna or Cher, for example. Just like those famous women, Ouidad, the “curly-hair specialist,” falls into the category of celebrity and hairstylist extraordinaire to legions of curly-haired fans all over the world.

In 1982, Ouidad became the first stylist dedicated to treating curly and frizzy hair. Today, she remains committed to treating this special type of hair.

“Curly hair is very hard to grow without feeding it to give it strength so it can extend in length,” Ouidad said. “Since curly hair grows in a corkscrew shape, it's impossible for the cuticle layer to stay closed. This allows the molecular layer – which is the internal conditioning layer – to escape, causing the hair to become dry and break off before it can become long.

“When nutrients in the body extend to nourish the hair, skin, and nails, the dry hair absorbs it just to survive, not to extend in length. That is why you always hear, 'I can only grow my hair to this point.'”

With proper treatment, however, Ouidad says it is possible to grow beautiful long, curly hair.

“When the hair is fed by using a protein-based deep treatment every two weeks, the hair takes on new life. Curly hair can then use the body's internal nutrients to extend in length.”

Jane Seymour's Stylist Shares Her Hair Care Secrets

 
Actress Jane Seymour is world-famous for her gorgeous long hair as well as for her amazing career that has spanned more than three decades. She was kind enough to put us in touch with her hairstylist in Malibu, California, who exclusively shared Jane's long hair care secrets with Longhairlovers.

Marie Fero of The Colony Salon has worked with Jane Seymour for the past three years. During that time, Marie says Jane's hair has become dramatically thicker and healthier, thanks to the right tools and products.

Jane's Hair Type

According to Marie, Jane's mid-back length hair is very fine, but abundant. Although mostly straight, Jane's hair has a slight wave that gives it lots of body and bounce.

Hair Color

When Jane's hair has to be perfect for an acting project or one of her many charity functions, she has her color touched up as often as every three weeks, which is why Marie says gentle coloring products are so important.

Before beginning the coloring process, Marie applies a professional EC Mode product called Ultra Crystal Gel to Jane's hair with a heat cap for 20 minutes. The special gel removes minerals and other build-up. This allows the hair to receive more color molecules in a shorter amount of time, so less damage is done to hair.

Marie uses Goldwell hair color on Jane because of its low ammonia content. Marie weaves in three different shades to create depth: red, blonde, and Jane's natural medium golden brown. She's careful to touch up Jane's regrowth - never the ends - because, she says, overlapping color on long hair weakens the hair shaft and leads to breakage.

On Jane's fragile ends, Marie uses a protein-enriched color depositing conditioner by Goldwell called Colorance. This product contains no ammonia and only a small amount of peroxide to freshen color without excessive damage.

After coloring Jane's hair, Marie uses EC Mode's Emergent-C Ultra ReVitalizer, which stops the oxidation process that can continue for up to 24 hours after coloring. Stopping the process immediately leaves hair stronger and healthier.

Trimming

Marie says that Jane's hair grows fast: about 3/4 to 1-inch per month, so she has her ends trimmed every few weeks to keep them in good condition. Jane prefers slight layering around the ends for movement, plus a soft fringe around her face for styling versatility.
Styling

When styling Jane's hair for a big event, Marie likes Phytologie products. She uses the Phytodefrisant Baume when Jane wants a smooth straight look and Phytolaque Soie finishing spray with silk fibers to smooth and fortify hair.

At-Home Products

To maintain her healthy long hair, Marie says Jane loves EC Mode products. EC Mode takes a "wellness approach to beauty," which appeals to Jane. Her favorite products include the Hair Thickening Shampoo for volume and the Brilliant Detangling Conditioner for shine and manageability.

Tools
Marie says that Jane loves her Mason Pearson hair brush because it stimulates her scalp while detangling. She also uses a negative ion hair dryer that leaves hair shiny, smooth and in great condition.

Marie Fero can be reached at The Colony Salon, 23710 Malibu Rd., Malibu, CA 90265. Call 310-456-3112 for an appointment. 

Summer Hair Color Tips

By Les Haverty
Artistic Director, FHI Heat

Summer hair care can be a daunting subject for women with long and color-treated hair. But a little know-how can help you preserve your tresses while still having fun in the sun.

According to Les Haverty, Artistic Director of FHI Heat, "The beach, swimming pools, and many outdoor activities can adversely affect your hair's moisture and color.  These days the nice thing is that we have many helpful options to protect our investment in our hair."

Les shares his recommendations for maintaining your hair's brilliance and shine through out the summer season.

Shampoo with hydrating, color safe, sulfate-free shampoos. "These are usually the safest for daily use. I recommend sulfate free shampoos because they use natural cleansers to clean the hair without using the harsh sulfate detergents that are responsible for degrading the color or lowlights you spent your hard earned money on.  I would also recommend an acidifying conditioner.  These are usually citrus-based conditioners which have a pH value between 3.0 and 3.7, and remember that hair's natural pH is 4.5 to 5.5.  Acidifying conditioners help seal the cuticle around the color molecules on the hair shaft and allow for the color to last longer!"

Wash hair with tepid or lukewarm water. "I recommend that one use tepid or lukewarm water when shampooing to get it clean.  Washing with too hot water can actually open the cuticle removing the hair's natural moisture and further dry out the hair making it feel like card board or a corn stalk. It also contributes to color loss.  

"Also nobody likes the extremely cold water in the shower--burrr.  This can be done daily (for oily scalps), but if you are one with a dry scalp, every other day is okay as well.  On in between days, try using a natural bristle brush and brush the hair from scalp to ends allowing the natural oils or sebum to cover the hair, after all this is your body's custom conditioner for your hair." 

Wash hair right after pool time and ocean time. "The oceans contain massive amounts of salt, which can cause your hair color to fade as well.  Add the sun's solar energy into the mix and you will start to see the bleaching effect on hair, the sun is like a bleach factory.  At the very least, one should rinse the hair off with tepid fresh water after pool and ocean swims."

Conditioning hair in the summer months is very important. "I stick with the acidifying type for daily use if you have color and highlights.  The pH is usually between 3.0 to 3.5 for these conditioners.  The acid helps keep the cuticle closed while holding onto the hair color.  For this type of hair I would also try a hydrating conditioner once every two weeks to maintain the softness and condition of the hair.  If unsure as to your conditioner's pH, I recommend giving the manufacturer a call. 

"For extremely dry and brittle hair try keeping a comb in the shower as well.  After applying the conditioner to the hairs ends and mid strand, comb the conditioner through the hair.  This makes sure that the hair, which needs the most help, absorbs it."

Style hair with alcohol free and silicone-free products. "Some manufacturers claim that the alcohol dries the product and not the hair...but if your hair is already on the dry side naturally, I would stay away from mousses, gels, and sprays containing alcohol. The non-alcoholic products work just as good, if not better because they are non-damaging.

"Once the alcohol in the hairspray dries and attaches to the hair, it forms a bond and that bond is strong. When shampooing, the alcohol is also going to strip some color and moisture from the hair.  Nowadays we have such a great selection of natural hair sprays, shampoos and conditioners that work fantastic.  I think it's worth the shopping time.

"For styling products, I recommend serums that contain no drying silicone, but instead natural moisturizers. Silicone leads to brittle hair, and when heat is applied, the silicone melts and embeds itself into the hair shaft, causing color not to stick to hair! "

Finish hair with UV enriched sprays.  "Use a spray or pomade that has a UV protectant and use just enough to get the desired look.  With pomades in the summer months, be careful not to apply too much as it will weigh down the hair and the sun's heat may actually make the hair look greasy."

Les's at-home tip for summer beach hair and skin spray:

Boil 2 cups of bottled water. Add 4 tablespoons of SPF 40 or higher sunscreen (lotion or cream works best) and stir until well emulsified. Let cool, then put into a clean bottle with sprayer nozzle.

"I use this on my hair at the beach and also my skin for a recharge in battling the suns harmful UV rays...it also gives my hair that nice shiny look!"

Use gentle heat styling tools featuring far-infrared heat (gentle, healthy heat).  "Blowers, flat irons, curling irons, all hair tools that utilize ceramic, tourmaline, and far-infrared heat can help prevent heat damage. Stay away from metal irons and blowers that produce infrared heat (non-healthy heat).

"As you know, tools have come so far in the last few years.  Once upon a time, the harmful infrared rays of curling irons and blow dryers did actually damage, fade, and even burn and scorch hair.  Those days are long gone due to ceramic heater technology and thanks to the introduction of tourmaline gemstones in the construction of these tools. 

"Ceramic heaters produce a soft, smooth heat wave pattern known as far-infrared heat which is very gentle to the surface it penetrates--in this case hair.  Add the semi-precious gemstone tourmaline to the mix and you now have an ionic effect on hair that helps it retain moisture and look and feel much shinier after even one use.  We at FHI Heat have gone even further down the technology line to add our proprietary Nano-Fuzeion technology. 

"This is FHI's advanced combination of three distinct nano technologies (Nano Ti + Nano TiO2 + Nano Ag), which result in unmatched styling and health benefits for one's hair.  Nano Titanium enhances the ionic effect, allowing the hair to absorb more moisture for superior conditioning and shine.  Nano Titanium Oxide helps remove chemical pollutants and toxins, which build up in your hair from normal exposure to the elements.  Finally, Nano Silver removes harmful or damaging bacteria from the hair.  The moisturizing elements of Titanium work together with the cleansing and purifying characteristics of Titanium Oxide and Silver to leave your hair healthier, shinier, and more vibrant.  So you can see we have come a long way from using a clothes iron on our hair.

"The last thing piece of advice: stay out of the sun whenever possible or at least wear a hat when prolonged outdoor exposure is in the forecast."

For more information on Les and FHI Heat products visit  fhiheat.com.

The Longhairlovers Interview With Guy Kramer

Early in his career, Guy Kremer learned the importance of artfully dressing long hair. While working at the Hans of Vienna salon in Winchester, England, in the 1970's, Kremer found himself dressing some notable royal manes. These noble ladies all had long hair and all had one particular fashion accessory in common.

“They came into the salon with magnificent tiaras inside ebony boxes,” Kremer said. “I had to style their hair around the tiaras and became very good with long hair.”

Before that time, however, Guy (pronounced “Gee”) said he was just like many hairdressers still are today: afraid of long hair.

“I didn't know how to manage it,” he said. “Then I had the opportunity to watch Alexandre de Paris, the world maestro of long hair.” Guy was hooked, and said he “dove into” long hair fashion.
Today, Guy Kremer runs the eponymous L'Oreal Professional Colour Expert Salon in Winchester, England. He travels extensively dressing hair for top fashion shows, platform shows and competitions. In 1997, he was voted one of the Top 75 Educators of the Century by Modern Salon Magazine.

Kremer has immortalized his amazing updos in The Art of Dressing Long Hair (Thompson, 2004). More of an artsy coffee-table book than a how-to manual, Kremer said the book fills a void in the publishing world.

“There was a need for this book, showing what kind of hairstyles work with certain clothes” he said. “I show how to match hairstyles to different wardrobes, from haute couture to updated classics.” The book has been wildly successful, with the first printing selling out in just six months.

Believing it's impossible to create gorgeous updos without healthy hair, Kremer recommends using “the right products.” These include shampoos, conditioners and treatments from L'Oreal (he loves the Hot Style protective spray), Redken, and Kerastase. And from the Guy Kremer Hair Care Line, available exclusively through Wal-Mart stores in the United States.

Kremer advises his high-profile clients (including The Duchess of York and Jerry Hall) to avoid too much friction. "Repeatedly running your fingers through your hair is damaging," he said. He also recommends using a silicone-based serum to seal moisture in long hair's ends and says it's important to keep hair “under wraps when in the sun.”

Kremer believes strongly in regularly using deep conditioning treatments and leaving them in as long as possible. But he cautions against hot oil treatments.

“Hot oil is a myth,” he said. “It just coats the hair and gives a false impression that it's creating healthy hair.”

Perhaps the most important tip of all, according to Kremer, is having split ends professionally trimmed every 5 to 6 weeks. “It won't remove length, but will prevent damage from traveling up the hair shaft,” he said.

In parting, Kremer compared beautiful long hair to good shoes: “It's a projection of your femininity,” he said. “Don't neglect it – spend money on it and treat it right.”

A Visit With Dr. George Michael

After many phone conversations with Dr. George Michael, the premiere long hair guru in the world, I had the honor of being invited to his home in West Palm Beach, Florida to discuss all things having to do with long hair.
 

The walls in Dr. Michael's office are filled with photographs of some of the most incredible long-haired beauties in the world -- all of them his clients.

They included singer Crystal Gayle, Playboy Playmate Debra Jo Fondren, Guinness Book of World Records holder Dianne Witt, and countless models, actresses, and European nobles. Model-of-the moment Giselle Bundchen was also featured - she regularly visits the George Michael Salon in Beverly Hills.

I was extremely fortunate to have Dr. Michael give me my own one-hour consultation, during which he explained the principles of his system. It was all very scientific, yet Dr. Michael explained it in language that anyone could understand. Some of his most interesting points were:

• We inherit our hair from our father's mother and our mother's father.
• Hair becomes "adult" when we reach age 10.
• Women go through three major stages of hair loss that coincide with stages of menopause at ages 26, 36, and 54.
• Most women can grow their hair to tailbone length with proper care.

Dr. Michael then sent me off to prepare my hair for a 12-minute conditioning. I first applied a little of his conditioner to the outside of my hair to balance the pH-factor. Dr. Michael explained that pH is the measure used to determine the amount of acid and alkaline in hair. (Water's pH is 7).

He also explained that I should always use a spoon or spatula to scoop the creamy conditioner out of the container to prevent bacteria from tainting the unused product. Once I had about a teaspoon of conditioner smoothed on the outside layer of my hair, Dr. Michael instructed me to wash and rinse twice with his Cream Shampoo. He then showed me how to apply the 12-minute Conditioner to my damp hair from the length at my shoulders down to the tips.

True to its name, the conditioner sat on my hair for 12 minutes. Dr. Michael did not apply heat, explaining that it wasn't necessary for the 12-minute conditioning. Although he wouldn't tell me the ingredients in the conditioner, he did say that it contained special proteins that "filled in" any gaps in the hair shaft, making it smooth and silky.

After the 12 minutes were up, I rinsed my hair thoroughly and was ready to be combed out. Dr. Michael used a wide-tooth comb that literally slid through my hair. I found this amazing since I usually have to apply detangler right after washing. But the 12-minute conditioner had done its job so well that none was needed.

Dr. Michael then roller set my hair and applied a hair net to secure it.

I sat under a professional dryer that Dr. Michael explained got no hotter than 108 degrees... the perfect temperature for drying long hair. It took about an hour and a half to fully dry my mid-back length hair this way.

After removing the rollers, Dr. Michael had me flip my head upside down to brush 50 strokes from the nape of my neck to the tips. I was to follow each stroke with my other hand to prevent static from building. Dr. Michael explained that I should brush my hair this way each morning right when I got up to get the circulation properly moving to my scalp, which promotes hair growth.

Next, Dr. Michael assessed my cut. He considered it too "blunt", or straight, across the bottom and explained how tapering the cut like a half-circle was best for hair growth. He left the middle part of my hair its full 25 inches and tapered the sides to achieve the roundness.

When he was finished, my hair felt incredibly silky and swung beautifully when I shook my head.

Some of Dr. Michael's tips for my hair growth, which can be applied to most anyone include:

• Don't wash hair every day. Think of hair like a piece of fine silk that begins to fade after repeated washing. In addition, over-washing hair can actually make it greasier.
• Properly brushing hair every morning will distribute the scalp's sebum to the thirsty ends.
• Don't color long hair - it's very damaging and should be avoided if possible. Surprisingly, highlights are much better for long hair since only the roots are touched up each time.
• Use only a boar bristle brush with a wooden base. Dr. Michael explained that natural materials are least likely to cause hair damage.

  

Dr. George Michael's Method of Long Hair Care

Dr. George Michael was a plastic surgeon who developed products and a special process for caring for long hair. He is considered the "guru" of long hair care, and his clients have included famous long-haired beauties such as Crystal Gayle. The following is information taken from promotional method for the George Michael Method of long hair care.

Hair Washing Tips:

One doesn't lose hair through washing, but rather through friction and tangling. With shorter hair, how one massages the scalp is not so important. You can move your fingers back and forth, zigzag, in circles, figure eights or sideways -- it doesn't matter because it hardly tangles.
In contrast, long hair gets tangled when the scalp is massaged in circles or zigzag lines. By trying to untangle, it tears or falls out completely.

1. The best place to wash your hair is in the shower. Although some women prefer the wash basin or more especially, bending over the bathtub.

2. Stand bent over with your head tucked downwards. This relaxes the scalp and promotes blood circulation. If your head is higher than your elbows, the muscles in your scalp may cramp up. Try it yourself to see the difference.
3. All the dirt and oil particles should be expelled during the first shampoo, which serves as the purification of the hair. During the SECOND shampoo the scalp should be massaged and NOT THE HAIR!

4. For the correct massage, begin at the hairline and work towards the top massaging the scalp. Keep your hands beneath your hair and move them back and forth. Don’t use your hair as a scrub brush. When you’re finished massaging the scalp, shampoo the rest of your hair to the ends. Treat it like silk and try to avoid knots.

5. Finally, rinse out your hair thoroughly with warm water. If any of the bubbles remain, the hair will be dull and sticky. Feel the hair after cleansing and make sure the slightest trace of shampoo can’t be found.
6. If you can stand it, rinse hair in cold water. This allows the hair molecules to shrink and carries away all unnecessary layers. The hair will be easier to comb.

7. Pour a dab of rinse into your palm and apply with strokes to the length of your hair. Then rinse once more but with lukewarm water.

8. When you step out of the shower, use a hand towel to get rid of excess water.

9. Try to comb through the hair with your fingers, as long as it remains wet. Never brush when wet. Hair has a certain elasticity and can stretch from 1/8 to 1/6 of its original length. Luckily the hair normalizes itself when dry. When wet, it behaves like an over stretched rubber band and breaks. Use instead a wide-toothed tortoise shell comb to untangled and smooth out your hair.

10. Part the hair in small sections and begin 5cm above the ends to comb it out. When the entire lower section is untangled, go approximately 20cm up from the bottom and comb the hair in narrow strands through to the underside. Continue until you reach the scalp and all is tangle-free.

There are four different washing methods for you to use at different times and for different types of hair.
WASHING METHOD #1

A METHOD FOR MEDIUM TO BRA LENGTH HAIR WASHING THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF HAIR

(no more than twice a week)

ORDER: (A) shampoo, (B) cream rinse

(A) Wet hair with warm water. Apply shampoo and swoosh around the hair on the first lather. Rinse with warm water. Apply shampoo a second time and massage scalp. Avoid rigorous scrubbing. Gently wash the hair from the scalp down using re-grasping motions to avoid tangling. Rinse well until no suds appear in the water.

(B) Apply Madora George Michael Cream Rinse to the outer layers and ends only. Rinse well - you may want to finish with a final cold rinse to add additional shine to your hair.

WASHING METHOD #2

A METHOD FOR VERY LONG HAIR WASHING THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF HAIR (no more than once a week)

ORDER:

(A) "Pre-wash conditioner": While your hair is still dry, take ½ tablespoon of 12 Minute Conditioner. Apply conditioner to the ends and the top layer of your hair. Be sure only these trouble areas are well-coated. At this time, do not apply "pre-wash conditioner" to your scalp or the remaining area of hair, wash hair immediately.

(B) Shampoo: After applying our "pre-wash conditioner", wet your hair and apply a tablespoon of shampoo until a rich lather develops. Remember to wash the ends of your hair as well as your scalp. Rinse and always shampoo again. The first wash removes superficial dirt and oils; the second deep cleans.

(C) Cream Rinse: Use Madora George Michael Creme Rinse after you condition and shampoo. Pour one teaspoon into your hand and apply only to the ends of your hair and halfway up the hair's shaft.

THEN:

Rinse, rinse, and rinse! See those tiny bubbles at the drain? Rinse until they are reduced to just a few.
Finish with a cold water rinse. Cold water eliminates residue, closes scalp pores, and reduces the stretch in the hair created by hot water.

WASHING METHOD #3

12 MINUTE CONDITIONING (two to four times a month)

ORDER:

(A) Shampoo: Wet your hair and apply a tablespoon of shampoo until a rich lather develops. Remember to wash the ends of your hair as well as your scalp. Rinse and always shampoo again. The first wash removes superficial dirt and oils; the second deep cleans. Towel dry excess water.

(B) Condition: Apply one tablespoon of conditioner to entire head and leave on twelve minutes. Rinse well. The 12 Minute Conditioner will work well at room temperature.

(C) Cream Rinse: Pour one teaspoon into your hand. Apply only to the ends of your hair and half way up the hair’s shaft, not on the scalp. Rinse well.

WASHING METHOD #4

WASH SCALP ONLY
(Every day or every other day, in between regular shampoos which should be once a week)
Many of us wash our hair daily. However, shampooing once a week is best for the delicate ends of the hair. The solution is to wash the scalp daily or every two days in between. The three methods listed below will keep your hair clean and fresh smelling while protecting the ends.

(A) Have a friend hold up the ends of your hair. While bending over the sink, wash and rinse your scalp only. Then gently pat the wet portion of your hair dry with a towel.

(B) With one hand hold the ends of your hair away from the water. Wash and rinse your scalp with your other hand. Then gently towel dry your hair.

(C) Loosely pull your hair back into a braid at the nape of your neck and secure well. Bend over the sink and wash and rinse your scalp only. Towel off, and you have clean hair!

Always be sure to rinse well. Any residue will collect oil and dirt faster. When washing the scalp only, the Madora George Michael "pre - wash conditioner" and the Madora George Michael Cream Rinse are not necessary.

IF AND WHEN YOUR SHAMPOO STOPS WORKING.....

and they all eventually do, build up will occur. Use the Blue Shampoo which acts as a stripper of build up and yet remains gentle to the hair. Use it when you start to notice that the Cream Shampoo is less effective. Two washings with the Blue Shampoo should be sufficient, and then go back to the Cream Shampoo. Be sure to use the pre - wash conditioner on the ends and outer layer of hair when using the Blue Shampoo. Sometimes when you feel you still have residues left use three sudsings.

DRYING YOUR HAIR

Air-drying is always best. If you would rather dry your hair artificially, first set your hair with plastic rollers. Then sit under a hood dryer. To prevent damage to your hair, keep the dryer at a constant temperature (about 42 degrees centigrade or 108 degrees Fahrenheit).
Another gentle way to artificially dry your hair is to attach a diffuser to your blow dryer. This device spreads the hot air evenly, making the heat far less intense. If you would like to air dry your hair without getting the "frizzles" wait until your hair is 95% dry and then roll it on curlers. Apply a hairnet and dry your hair completely under a hair dryer - the warmth of the dryer will smooth out the hair. Depending on the richness of your hair it will take 15 - 30 minutes. You'll be surprised at the results. Never use heated rollers or curling tongs. These devices dry and break long hair. If you must blow dry use a diffuser. Dry roots first then dry lengths with gentle temperature. Once your hair is dry, you may brush it to a glorious shine.

BRUSHING
For a healthy head of beautiful hair you must treat, nourish, strengthen and stimulate the living part of the hair - the root. Brushing is an essential part of hair treatment. It keeps the scalp supple and accelerates the blood circulation which feeds the roots and distributes needed fatty acids along the length of the hair, assuring smoother combing without breaking, since lubricants also serve as moisturizers. We advise our clients to brush their hair as soon as they get up in the morning and only to use a natural bristle with a wooden base.
WHY BRUSH IN THE MORNING?

Brushing stimulates the circulation to the scalp and fluffs the hair. Don't think for a minute that this will make your hair more oily. Brushing actually distributes the oils to the ends of your hair. Which in turn is a natural protection for the hair against weather conditions and other stressful occurrences.

NEVER BRUSH WET HAIR!

Hair is more elastic when wet than when dry, and it will stretch when wet to the point of snapping if you use a brush. Instead use a wide tooth tortoise - shell comb. Start with the ends and slowly work your way up to the scalp. Never use a metal or rubber comb.

USE A NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSH WITH A WOODEN BASE
The natural bristles are closest to the hair structure itself, and therefore are less likely to produce tangles on long hair. The wooden base reduces static electricity.
METHOD

Stand with feet slightly apart and bend down from the waist until the hair falls in a curtain before your face. Brush your hair gently, starting from the roots at the nape of your neck and moving toward the end of the hair Follow each brush stroke with the open palm of your other hand. (This counteracts a build - up of static electricity). Start the first day with 20 brush strokes. Then, add 10 strokes each day. For oily condition or fine hair start with 10 strokes. Then add 5 strokes each day. Your goal: fifty brush strokes a day. Remember that morning brushing produces the best results!

PARTING THE HAIR

You probably part your hair on the left side or use a center part. We suggest that you part your hair on the right side. Hair follicles along the forehead grow from the left to the right. A right side part adds height and has your hair doing "push-ups". The middle part is definitely out. It puts additional stress on the weakest hairs on the top of the head, which results in hair thinning and the part spreading wider.
A center part forms a line that goes down the middle of the face, which accentuates the nose and any irregularities that exist between the left and the right side of the face. There are only a very, very few people in the entire world who literally look good with a center part.

Patrick Cameron's Method of Long Hair Care

Patrick Cameron is a top hairstylist and author of Dressing Long Hair, in which he demonstrates a variety of long hair updos. Following are Patrick's steps to long hair preparation before attempting updos:
Preparation

To keep long hair beautiful, Patrick recommends a care regime that includes regular trims to remove split ends. It continues with shampoos, conditioners, and styling products specially designed for long hair.

To strengthen, protect, and add shine to long hair, Patrick recommends using specialist conditioning products. He applies a creamy conditioner through the length of the hair and leaves it on for 10 minutes for an intensive pre-wash conditioning.

Patrick also recommends using liquid repair products containing keratin and amino acids that penetrate deep into the hair shaft, filling in and rebuilding broken bonds. Used regularly on long hair, Patrick says it will strengthen and form a protective seal that reduces the risk of future damage, making hair feel thicker and stronger.

Patrick says mousse is the most versatile styling product. He recommends an alcohol-free version that contains conditioning agents and proteins to nurture and protect the hair. Patrick recommends using an amount the size of an orange for long hair.

For bounce and movement, Patrick recommends misting long hair with a volumizing spray containing essential moisturizers that work to balance the hair's condition. He says good products give a natural hold without stickiness.

Drying and Finishing


Long Curly Hair Care


Patrick uses a curling iron to curl tendrils, and a straightening iron to iron out frizz and give a smooth finish.Patrick says to use a diffuser to encourage curl. He says to blot hair with a towel to remove excess moisture, then apply a volumizing spray or mousse. Lift hair with your fingers while using the diffuser to ensure even distribution of warm air. Patrick recommends using professional heated styling appliances on long hair to smooth the hair, build body, straighten, or curl hair efficiently and easily without, he says, risk of damage.
Patrick recommends blow-drying using a round bristle brish for smoothness. Use the nozzle for direct air-flow and point dryer downwards to flatten cuticle and create maximum shine.
Add body using a vent brush with a hollow center that allows the air-flow from the dryer to pass through.

The Longhairlovers Interview: Holistic Hair Guru Anthony Morrocco

Famed hairdresser Anthony Morrocco believes that healthy long hair is more than a physical pursuit; it's a spiritual one.

"Long hair is powerful for women. When a woman cuts her long hair, she chops off her goddess energy. Hair doesn't belong to the material world," he continues, "It belongs to the ethereal world, which is why doctors and dermatologists have a tough time with it."

If you're new to the world of holistic hair care, don't let Anthony Morrocco's New Age-speak frighten you. This man knows what he's talking about. Trained under the famous Kenneth of New York in the 1960?s -- a man Morrocco calls "the foremost authority on cutting hair" -- Anthony Morrocco's client list has included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Lauren Bacall, Faye Dunaway, Liza Minnelli and Mia Farrow.

Morrocco joined Kenneth's in 1964 and apprenticed with the master for a full month before ever touching a client. During this time, he learned Kenneth's "blunt snip" cutting technique that left his clients with healthy hair and classic -- never trendy -- styles.

Morrocco became interested in holistic hair care from another Kenneth's employee, a Hungarian woman named Rita.

"Rita was a botanist who made individualized hair care preparations for Kenneth's customers," Morrocco says. "She never shared her formulas with anyone until I made her a deal -- teach me about natural hair care and I'll introduce you to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis." This was an offer Rita couldn't refuse.
After learning about harvesting plants and mixing natural products, Morrocco left Kenneth's in 1968 and spent 2 1/2 years in Europe. He traveled to small town barber shops throughout the English, Italian and French countrysides and learned all about folk hair care techniques and treatments. Another important lesson had to do with lunar cycles.

"There's a famous village in Scotland named Findhorn that's mostly rock, yet the farmers grow the most beautiful fruits and vegetables," Morrocco says. "That's because they work with the ancient moon cycles to plant and harvest when the time is right. They work with love as their chief feature in sewing and harvesting their crops."

His interest piqued in moon cycles, Morrocco headed to Brazil to study lunar charting with a shaman, or holy man. There he learned about a special astrology for cutting hair.
"If I had told people in the village that I was getting a hair cut, they would have looked at me like I was crazy if it wasn't the right date for a hair cut," Morrocco says.

In addition to cutting hair by the moon cycles, the Brazilian villagers also picked and bottled plants and herbs for hair care preparations using the lunar calendar.

Today, Morrocco bottles his own line of holistic hair care products that are "blended and bottled using the ancient farmers' moon cycle." The ingredients include natural soapbark from Chilean evergreen trees, organic liquefied crystals from India and Tibet, and southwestern white healing clays. Many of his clients include homeopathic medical doctors and detox clinics with patients looking to completely eliminate chemicals from their lives.

If you're interested in exploring holistic hair care, Morrocco says the approach is multi-faceted and includes:

*Using natural products and correct brushing techniques
*Eating an organic diet ("eat live food to produce live cells," Morrocco says)
*Exercising for scalp and blood stimulation
*Using eastern astrology
*and balancing your emotional and spiritual life.

Morrocco says these holistic "spokes in the wheel" work together to create long, luxurious hair. The next important factor is finding the right stylist to help you on your quest.
First, he says, when you see a woman with gorgeous long hair, compliment her and find out who does her hair. Next, schedule a consultation with the stylist and trust your instincts.

"Don't give hairdressers too much power," Morrocco warns. "You want a very concerned person working on your hair," not someone who rushes you around or who wants to cut your hair their way without concern for your wishes.

"And there should never be a charge for a consultation," Morrocco says. Make sure you tell him or her that you want to grow thick, long hair and ask about trimming methods to help you achieve your goal.

Morrocco says that most women who think they can't grow long hair really have a problem with breakage, not growth.

"60 to 90% of hair breakage occurs from the bottom," he says. With the right type of trimming and care, this breakage can be prevented, which will allow hair to finally achieve a desired length.

For more information on Anthony, visit www.morroccomethod.com