Talking Long Hair With Trevor Sorbie

 

"My long hair is me now,
the roots were yesterday,
the ends were many yesterdays
but it will still be my tomorrow."
-TrevorSorbie.com

Trevor Sorbie is a hairdressing legend known for introducing the world to such short styles as The Wedge, The Scrunch, and The Chop. It may seem ironic, then, that he is also one of the few top stylists who has wholeheartedly embraced long hair.

With a desire to help women treat their long locks right, Sorbie launched a line of long hair products in 2002.

Longhairlovers had the opportunity to submit several email questions to Sorbie about his long hair line.

LHL: Why have you chosen to embrace long-haired clients when so many stylists shy away from them?

TS: I know women have an on-going love-affair with their long hair and if it is stressed in any way, then so are they. Long hair is only beautiful if it is shiny, lustrous, soft and silky. I think long hair is beautiful and should be kept healthy. What many women don’t understand is the longest part of their hair is the oldest and therefore needs a lot more conditioning.

LHL: How did you first become aware of 18 MEA (18 methyl eicosanoic acid) as an essential ingredient for long hair care?

TS: The 18MEA formula was introduced to us by Stuart Long who is the Scientific Formulator at Boots. I believed in the formulation immediately and it was licensed to Trevor Sorbie products for one year which meant nobody else could use it.

LHL: How is long, curly hair different from long, straight hair and how do your products address these needs?

TS: Curly hair can get a lot drier than straight hair. The long curly hair range includes more of the moisturising ingredient 18MEA. The breakthrough ingredient 18MEA is a lipid found naturally in hair. It works by forming a microscopic layer on the outside of each cuticle to protect the surface and give hair its smoothness and ‘slip’. This maximises shine and adds a protective layer to minimise future damage and actually JB halt the ageing process. This clever lipid targets and repairs each hair, attaching itself to the damaged areas, restoring the surface whilst boosting shine in a natural, long-lasting way.

LHL: How did you develop your line of long hair brushes?

TS: Our long haired clients kept asking if we had something special for their hair. We developed the range in consultation with a designer to manufacture brushes that would easily glide through long hair and remove tangles with the minimum stress to the hair shaft.

LHL: Why do long-haired women require special brushes?

TS: Long hair is easily damaged but brushes and combs with widely spaced teeth minimise damage.
The paddle brush, which is flat and wide, is best for brushing out long hair and for creating straight, smooth styles Think of a classic one-length style. It also gives you a mini scalp massage.

LHL: Please share any other thoughts and advice you have for women with long hair and women who are growing out their hair.

TS: Hair is different ages along its length, the longer the hair, the older it is. Long hair suffers with age – even shoulder length locks are 2-3 years old - and during its life will have been subjected to a combination of stresses including detergent and mechanical damage, heat styling, chemical and environmental assault. These elements all combine to damage or destroy the natural 18 MEA leading to dull, lack-lustre hair. As each strand of hair is stripped bare of this vital protective layer of 18MEA it is laid open to further damage which can lead to hair fatality – split ends and breakage.

If you have long hair and like to style it poker straight you must ensure that you shampoo and condition your hair with products that are specially formulated to take extra care of long hair.

Shampoo and condition making sure you rinse hair thoroughly. Gently blot hair dry with a towel, do not rub or you will tangle and could damage the cuticle. Now apply Straightening Balm for Styling Hair with 18MEA. Use 2-4 pumps, depending on hair length, spread into palms and distribute from roots to tips. Do not rinse out. Now, working on a section a time, blow dry with barrel of dryer pointing downwards—this flattens the cuticle and promotes shine. As each section is dried, switch to cool shot to set the hair into shape.

Once all hair is dry, take small sections and run straightening irons down hair. If you have hair that is long but wild and curly you can maximise curls by cutting the hair in long layers which will eliminates weight and make styling easier. Always use a moisturising shampoo and conditioner which will infuse each strand with moisture. Remember to rinse shampoo clean away as residues can drag curls down. To style, apply a Curl Cream, working a generous amount through hair from roots to tips. Either leave curls to dry naturally or use a diffuser on a low heat and speed setting.

Trim your hair often as damage to your hair will move up from the ends and the only way to stop the damage in its tracks is to remove it as soon as it happens. Trim hair a half inch every month.
Be gentle with your hair when it is wet. Don't rub your hair vigorously with a towel, gently squeeze the towel down the length of your hair. Comb your hair to ensure all knots have been removed before shampooing.

Deep condition your hair at least monthly, even if it's in good shape this will help keep it that way. If your hair is dry or damaged, deep condition weekly. Hot oil treatments are a good alternative for very dry hair or for extra.

Born in Scotland in 1949, Trevor Sorbie learned barbering from his father. His career path took him to Vidal Sassoon in London where he eventually became the Artistic Director. After working as a stylist and session hairdresser at Toni & Guy and John Frieda, Sorbie opened his own salon in 1979. He has since been named British Hairdresser of the Year (1985, 1991 and 1992), has created his own hair care line and opened a second salon in Covent Garden, London.
To learn more or to purchase products, visit TrevorSorbie.com.

Natural Hair in the Public Eye

T'Keyah Crystal Keymah is a hair pioneer. From the time she first stepped foot on a sound stage for the pilot to what would become the Emmy Award-winning comedy In Living Color, T'Keyah has worn her hair natural.

“Fifteen years ago, no one in prime-time was wearing natural hair, unless they wore locs or a short afro,” T'Keyah says of African-American characters on television.  She knew she was on to something when she started getting fan mail specifically about her hair.

T'Keyah's road to natural hair began like many little girls of African descent: by straightening her curls to fit a beauty ideal that was unnatural for her hair type.

“Growing up, I had my hair pressed straight, and by college I was having it permed,” she says. “But when I realized that I would have to get touch-ups while away at school from a hairdresser I didn't know, I started cutting it out.”

T'Keyah (pronounced Ta-kee-ah) says her hair was just a few inches long and completely natural by Christmas of her first year away from home, but that she gave in and permed it again when she joined a sorority. It took a life-changing trip to Africa before T'Keyah says she began to think differently about her hair.

“While in West Africa, I had my hair wire wrapped and hand-twisted,” she says. “Even though the natural styles were foreign to me at the time, I realized that perming was also foreign to my natural hair type.”

T'Keyah had a newfound freedom in her natural styles and resisted the urge to straighten her hair even when Hollywood came calling.

“While shooting the In Living Color pilot, my hair was still damaged from previous chemical treatments,” she says, “so I could only wear it braided flat to my head.

“When the show was picked up, I started wearing my hair in twists. There were no natural hairstylists on the set, so other than the million wigs I wore, I usually did my hair myself,” she says.
Fans of the show loved T'Keyah's signature look and wanted to know how to get it for themselves.
“The letters kept coming,” she says, “so I began researching natural hair.”

After several years of researching and writing, all while working as a successful actress, T'Keyah self-published her book, Natural Woman/Natural Hair: A Hair Journey.

“I wanted to offer women something different by giving them step-by-step instructions on how to do the styles themselves, instead of assuming anything; even that they knew how to braid,” she says.
“I also wanted the book to be beautiful, with beautiful photos, and with my own hair stories and poetry. The response has been overwhelming.”

As Raven's mom on Disney's hit show, That's So Raven, T'Keyah has the opportunity to reach a whole new audience of young girls and teens.

“I want Black girls to know that their hair is beautiful, however it comes out of their heads,” she says. Judging by the response, the message seems to be getting through.

“I get letters that say things like, 'My daughter stopped pressing and perming her hair because of Raven's mom,' and 'Now my daughter feels good about going to school,'” she says.

T'Keyah is also out to dispel the myth that Black women's hair won't grow long.

“Of course Black hair grows,” T'Keyah says, “otherwise we'd all be bald when the hair reaches the end of its cycle. What's happening is that the hair is breaking off because of the way we treat it,” she says.
T'Keyah says that Black hair “is not as fragile as you think,” and that it can be made even stronger by avoiding things like cotton pillowcases, rubber bands, sponge rollers and wool caps.

Above all, T'Keyah says the book's goal is to show women that each one possesses her own innate beauty.

“No woman should believe that in order to be beautiful you have to be the opposite of what you are.”

The Longhairlovers Interview With Tanya Streeter

 

Tanya Streeter is a natural, whether it's growing gorgeous, long hair, or holding her breath longer and diving deeper than any other human on record.

“I'm not very good with my hair and don't think about it much,” Streeter said from her home in Austin, Texas. “When I know I'm going to be in the water, I just coat it with a ton of conditioner, braid it, and wear it down my wet suit.”

This simple approach to hair care has worked well for Streeter, and her self-described “butt-length, bone straight, natural blonde hair” has always been in incredible condition. So much so that the folks at Locks of Love jumped at her offer to donate 10 inches for a child's wig.

When we spoke for this interview, Streeter had just returned to the United States from three weeks of diving in Cyprus. Born and raised in the Cayman Islands, Streeter said it took a while before she even realized she had an incredible talent for breath-hold diving.

“My friends and I swam a lot growing up,” she said. “They actually pointed out that I could hold my breath for longer than anyone else.”

Streeter began competing on the international circuit when she was 24 years old and has set 10 world records since.

She holds the record for Variable Weight diving (using a ballast weight to descend and her own strength to ascend) at 122 meters/400 feet and No Limits diving (descending with the help of a ballast weight and ascending via the method of her choice: a balloon, a diving suit, or a vest with inflatable compartments) at 160 meters/524 feet.

In 2002, Streeter was dubbed  “The World's Most Perfect Athlete” by Sports Illustrated, and is sponsored by TAG Heuer, Red Bull, Yamamoto Corp., and the Islands of Turks & Caicos.
Streeter's photo ads for her sponsors have always featured her gorgeous, extra-long hair, so her decision to donate it was a very serious – and personal – one.

“My mother was diagnosed with breast cancer and I wanted to donate my hair to make a beautiful wig for her,” Streeter said. “My mom opted for the instant gratification of an off-the-shelf wig which worked out great, and my husband shaved his head in sympathy for her, but I had already decided that donation was a great thing to do with my excess hair.”

Streeter did a Web search for “hair donation,” where she learned about Locks of Love and sent them an email. The organization was thrilled to find out that Streeter was a world-class athlete who would help generate international publicity for the cause.

“There were four photographers and two news crews there to record the big snip,” Streeter said. In addition to the 10 inches cut that day, Streeter donated a 16-inch braid she had cut when she was 9 years old.

“My hair was tailbone length when I was 9. I was heading to boarding school in England and decided to get my hair cut in a pixie. The hairdresser cried,” Streeter said.
Remarkably, the 22-year old braid she saved remained in excellent condition, and Locks of Love gladly accepted it as well.

Streeter's hair now falls to the middle of her back and she says it's much easier to manage while diving.
“I would consider growing it longer again in the future so I could make another donation,” she said.
This generous and humble attitude has endeared Streeter to her fans in the diving world. Far from reveling in her success, Streeter said she feels overwhelmed when she becomes the first person to achieve a new diving record.

“It's so exciting to be on the edge of our individual potential as human beings,” Tanya said. “The implications are very powerful and keep me grounded. We're just beginning to learn what we're capable of in this evolutionary process.”

The Longhairlovers Interview With Riquette Hofstein

 

Beauty expert Riquette Hofstein is passionate about helping people grow hair. As an author and lecturer, she has countless fans worldwide who follow her holistic approach to grow their hair faster and healthier. Her clients include everyone from those who are going bald to those who want the gorgeous long hair of their dreams."

I love long hair,” Riquette says from her Beverly Hills office. “I wear my own about three-quarters down my back.”

Riquette’s background is truly international, as is her beauty training. She was born in Egypt and raised in France and Australia. She studied at the Schwarzkopf Institute of Hair Research in Munich and received her trichology certificate from the prestigious René Furterer Institute in Paris. She is also known as the originator of “kitchen cosmetics” and believes that some of the best hair growth treatments can be made from ingredients found in the kitchen pantry. Take her “Spice Rack Shampoo,” for example.

“This is an excellent, all-natural recipe to dissolve wax buildup on the scalp and promote healthy hair growth,” she says. “Simply mix a tablespoon each of lavender, sage, rosemary and parsley with four ounces of Castille soap and one quart of distilled water. If you have dry or brittle hair, you can also add two drops of almond oil.”

Riquette compiled her years of researching natural hair growth remedies into the best-selling book, Grow Hair in 12 Weeks (Crown Publishing, 1992) and her latest work, Grow Hair and Stop Hair Loss (Riquette International, 2003). One of the more interesting aspects in her new book is the emphasis on hypnosis, meditation, and visualization techniques to enhance hair growth.

“Hypnotherapy is very important for people who believe they’ll never have beautiful healthy hair,” Riquette says. “It can redirect the subconscious to correct the erroneous beliefs that aging, genetics or the environment are keeping them from growing hair. In addition, hypnotherapy is calming and relaxing, which helps people take better care of themselves through reduced stress and better nutrition.”

As a licensed hypnotherapist, Riquette works personally with clients to improve their attitudes about hair growth. She also offers a hypnotherapy audio tape on her Web site for those who wish to begin redirecting their subconscious at home.

For people wanting to grow their hair as quickly as possible, Riquette has the following suggestions:

“To grow healthy long hair, it’s important to dissolve wax buildup on the scalp and to promote circulation.” To do so, Riquette recommends creating the recipes from her latest book or using her own natural hair and scalp treatments.
“I recommend the Basic 4 products from my line, which include the Scalp Cleansing Shampoo, Daily Shampoo, Conditioning Protein Pack and Botanical Finishing Lotion.”

Although the products may seem expensive, Riquette says that they’re extremely concentrated and will last up to four months.

“You’ll be able to go longer between washes and will notice a definite change in hair texture within one week,” she says.

Riquette also touts the benefits of brushing 100 strokes each day with a boar bristle brush. She believes highly in nutrition to help speed growth and has created a hair growth supplement called Formula F.F – “food for follicles” – a combination of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and herbs to build protein and promote stronger hair.

Riquette consults personally with clients on hair nutrition, hair and root health, and topical scalp treatments. In Beverly Hills, you can schedule a confidential appointment by calling 800-747-8388. For those who can’t make the trip to California, Riquette will consult by email or snail mail and will compile a personalized report complete with follow-ups throughout the year. For more information, email Riquette at info@riquette.com.

So, what’s next for the woman who’s out to make the world a more beautiful place?

“My ultimate dream is to create a foundation for kids, to educate them about nutrition and grooming for healthy hair and skin, which is so important to self-esteem.” Sounds like a wonderful plan to ensure happier, healthier adults for generations to come.

The Longhairlovers Interview With Ouidad

You have to be pretty well-known to be called by one name – take Madonna or Cher, for example. Just like those famous women, Ouidad, the “curly-hair specialist,” falls into the category of celebrity and hairstylist extraordinaire to legions of curly-haired fans all over the world.

In 1982, Ouidad became the first stylist dedicated to treating curly and frizzy hair. Today, she remains committed to treating this special type of hair.

“Curly hair is very hard to grow without feeding it to give it strength so it can extend in length,” Ouidad said. “Since curly hair grows in a corkscrew shape, it's impossible for the cuticle layer to stay closed. This allows the molecular layer – which is the internal conditioning layer – to escape, causing the hair to become dry and break off before it can become long.

“When nutrients in the body extend to nourish the hair, skin, and nails, the dry hair absorbs it just to survive, not to extend in length. That is why you always hear, 'I can only grow my hair to this point.'”

With proper treatment, however, Ouidad says it is possible to grow beautiful long, curly hair.

“When the hair is fed by using a protein-based deep treatment every two weeks, the hair takes on new life. Curly hair can then use the body's internal nutrients to extend in length.”

Hair Model Secrets

Professional hair models Doris Weldon and Katie Chonacas share their secrets to gorgeous hair.


Doris' Hair Type


 


“My hair is very thick and naturally coarse - as is a lot of curly hair. It’s also long, falling to about the middle of my back. My hair is naturally dry…so moving away from the humidity in Georgia where I’m from and coming to the dry air in Los Angeles initially left me with even dryer hair that needed extra attention to keep it from becoming brittle.


 “While my hair is a shade of red (I call it Feisty Pumpkin), it has many different strands of colors that are all natural. The red strands are the thickest and most coarse and curly. The lighter blonde and even white strands are very thin and easily breakable, but are more wavy than kinky. (I once had a stylist on a set argue with me saying that I must have highlights to have so many different colors in my hair - but I don’t have highlights or any artificial coloring, I’ve always had many shades… of course, it has gotten darker as I’ve gotten older, though.)”

Doris' Hair Care Routine

“Daily care for my hair includes shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, and some sort of alcohol-free styling product to define the curls. Then, I allow it to air-dry. I never blow-dry or diffuse. Brushing - never! Combing - only while in the shower during the conditioning step.

“The shampoo and conditioner I use varies from $1.00 VO5 Balsam and Protein (but not the pretty scented ones, they don’t work as well) to $20 Catwalk Curls Rock from Tigi. I also really like the Hydrating Curls line from Pantene and the Moist line from Aussie.

“I tend to mix and match my leave-in conditioning and styling products depending on the level of strength I need (whether it’s a beach day with lots of breeze or a day in the desert with sun and dry air or a plane trip with lots of window-pressed sleeping and hair-smashing). Some of my favorites include Catwalk Curls Rock from Tigi, Sebastian Potion 9, Equalizer from Zerran, C-System Styling Conditioner from Mop, Beyond the Zone Noodle Head, and Herbal Essence Maximum Hold mousse for curls.

“Monthly care includes a deep conditioning treatment with lots of oils to rehydrate my hair and scalp. My stylist has also recommended that I coat my hair with olive oil before going to the beach to allow the natural heat from the sun to work with the oils to condition.

“I’ve never tried scalp massages, but after reading about them at Longhairlovers.com, it’s definitely something I am excited about trying. Hey, every girl loves a real reason to get a massage. It’s pampering but vital to my career as well – I like that.

“I don't drink caffeine... in fact, I only rarely get small dosages from eating chocolate. I don't do caffeine because I don't like the way it makes me feel, but an added benefit of being caffeine-free is hair health. I read that caffeine and carbonated drinks can block maximum hair growth potential.”

Doris' Hair Care Secrets

“Find a stylist that truly understands your hair. We all have different textures and hair needs. My personal stylists in L.A. and Georgia both have naturally curly, coarse hair. I chose them because they have a first-hand knowledge of how to cut and treat curls."

“For those with long, thick hair who opt against using blow dryers, try this trick: when you wake up late and don’t have 3 hours to allow your hair to dry before your appointment or shoot or class, turn the heat on high while driving your car and point it at your head.

“Here's another secret to try: after rinsing the conditioner from your hair with warm water, do a quick splash of cold water for shine. I told my stylist back home in Georgia about this trick and she said it helps in another way as well. She said the cold water closes the pores in your scalp that were opened with the hot water, and in closing, they trap the good things you just added, including moisturizers and oils.”

Doris' Hair Modeling Experience

“Being a hair model is both exciting and surreal. As a child growing up, I hated having red, curly hair. I wanted it to be blonde and straight. And now… well, my hair is an asset. It’s what makes me unique. My face is okay… my body is boy-like… but my hair is what allows me to work as a model. People may not remember my name, but they remember my hair. It’s both a blessing and a curse in that regard! I can never hide or be a face in the crowd as long as my hair is exposed.

“When I was growing up I continuously heard, 'I love your hair,' from adults. But never from kids my age. I was tall, thin and red-headed, so you can imagine the comments I got in middle school. Then, suddenly, Nicole Kidman appeared on the Hollywood scene and my hair became cool. Thanks, Nicole! That’s when things sort of turned around for me. I started really liking my hair. And so did the people around me. The comments became, 'What color do you use on your hair? Who perms your hair?' And my response was, 'My dad gave me these curls as a birthday present.'”

“The jobs I get called out on range from product catalog shoots to specific photo projects for photographers.

“Stylists generally take it pretty easy on my hair. Most who know and understand how curls work also understand that if they play with it too much, the curls will separate and it will become just one big fuzzy, frizzy mess. But, I have had a few wild dos. One woman who worked for Sebastian Hair and Skin Products wrapped my hair into five cones on top of my head that looked like the crown on the Statue of Liberty. She then dreaded the small amount she left hanging in the back. I was taken out onto the beach in Hilton Head for a shoot looking like that! As the photographer, hair lady, lighting guy and I paraded along the sand, one small boy asked his mother, 'Mom, what is she?'”

Katie's Hair Type

“My hair isn't thick, I just have a lot of it. My hair is considered long, but to me, it's the shortest it's been in years. I recently cut 12 inches off and donated to kids with leukemia.”

Katie's Hair Care Routine

“I wash my hair once a week. It's not good to wash it every day because the oils can't get to the bottom fast enough. I brush my hair every day, all the time: in the morning, during the day and even hundreds of brush strokes at night. I always sleep with my hair down, never tied up. While it's wet I never twist it too tight because it's not good for it, it breaks the hair.

“I get a scalp massage once a month... I love them so much! Also, sometimes while I'm in my shower I pinch my scalp myself. I get deep conditioning treatments once a month. Also, I love taking Vitamin E. It makes your hair strong and helps it grow faster.”

Katies' Hair Modeling Experience

“Before a shoot, sometimes the stylists blow dry and flat iron my hair. Sometimes they braid it or do updos and a whole bunch of funky things.

I love hair modeling! It's all about beauty and glorifying who you are and what women want to be.”

Skincare & Makeup Secrets For Long-Haired Women

Women with long hair have very different skincare and makeup concerns than women with short hair. We asked professional esthetician Heather Roldan for her secrets to helping women with long hair look their best.

LHL: Women with long hair often suffer from breakouts where their bangs or long locks make contact with their skin. How can we keep our skin clear?

HR: Don't fear, anyone can wear their hair down and not be concerned about messy breakouts on their hairline.

The most important step to maintaining a healthy complexion is to find the skin care regimen that works for you. What I suggest is to visit your local esthetician who can analyze your skin and recommend products that are best for your skin type.

One reason you may experience breakouts near your hairline is due to the excessive amount of heat and sweat that irritates the pores and increases the acid levels of your skin, your pH level. Once the pH level is off, a number of elements can produce a pimple, rash, or blackheads.

Often times I hear clients say, "I have excellent genes - my mother has great skin. I don't do anything to my skin, I'm very natural." Unfortunately, doing nothing to your skin can actually lead to damage: your skin's protective acid mantle can strip away, leaving your complexion excessively dehydrated and hypersensitive. You may notice a dull, gray complexion and clogged pores.

I emphatically urge everyone to find a Cleanser, Toner, Eye Cream, Serum, Day and Night Cream, a Gommage Exfoliate and Mask.
Every morning and night rinse your skin with your fingertips and a gentle cream-based cleanser, then softly rinse with luke warm water. Next, apply your toner with a spray or cotton ball. This is the "Key" to correcting your pH level and closing your pores. It's also a catalyst that helps moisturizers properly absorb into the skin, rather than just sitting on top of the skin.

Then apply an eye cream all over the eye lid and under the eyes. Many skin care lines have a specially formulated serum that can tighten the skin and assist with hydration.

Hydration is the next "Key" to diminishing a dull complexion and fine lines. Drinking water alone does not cure this problem; we must topically apply moisture as well. Apply a day and Night cream as recommended.

On a weekly basis, take some time to pamper yourself. First, exfoliate the dead skin off with a gentle exfoliate. After the skin is refreshed, use your serum and mask as directed, followed by your day or night cream.

Anytime you feel you have blackheads or pimples, let the professionals take care of it for you. Your esthetician can properly extract the clogged sebum without being too aggressive.
For gorgeous skin, it's important to be faithful to your skin care regimen. Clear skin will allow your natural beauty to shine through and keep the attention on your beautiful long hair!

LHL: Should women with long hair alter their makeup based on whether they're wearing their hair up or down?

HR: It's always best to enhance your best features and downplay your problem areas with makeup. You can also use makeup to dramatically compliment a natural style or updo.

When wearing hair up, I like to enhance the eyes with more dramatic makeup and use a subtle lip color or gloss. While wearing your hair down I would go for a dramatic lip color or gloss and softly enhance your eye with neutral colors and plenty of mascara on your lashes.

It's important to start out with a healthy complexion and plenty of skin moisturizer. Choosing the appropriate foundation, powder, and concealer is second. You should always choose a color that matches the skin tone on your neck. If you have red, blotchy skin, create a clean, even palate with a durable foundation. MAC Makeup is one of my favorite brands and has an excellent reputation for all skin types and looks.

Visiting your local makeup counter and asking for a complimentary makeup trial is always a good idea.
Makeup trends are constantly changing, so go with what feels comfortable for you but also don't be afraid to try something new.

Heather Roldan is a licensed esthetician who runs "Mobile Spa To You" specializing in customized in home spa parties in Southeastern and Mid-Michigan. Services include Facials, Massages, Skin Care Products, Glycolic Peels, Nails, and Waxing, Wedding Make-up. To schedule an appointment, please call 586-212-7279.

The ABC's of Hair Modeling

There are many perks to having beautiful, healthy looking hair. Sure it can make you feel like a million bucks and the envy of all your friends. But did you know that a gorgeous mane can actually be your ticket to the world of big time modeling?

“Clients pay well to shoot amazing healthy hair,” says Linda Teglovic, owner of Body Parts Models, Inc. in Beverly Hills. Linda is a former leg model whose agency is the first of its kind on the West Coast. Since opening the business in 2001, Linda has placed her hair models with such big-name clients as Pantene, Garnier, Sebastian, and Paul Mitchell.

Hair is just one of the specialties in the world of body parts modeling. Other categories include hands, feet, necks, ears, and abs.

With any of the body parts modeling categories, perfection is important. According to Linda, hair models must have that swingy, shiny healthy hair we all envy.

“Usually, a model has virgin hair, or hair that's been very carefully highlighted,” she says.

And, although a hair model should have a photogenic face, she does not need to be 5'8" and 108 pounds. That's one of the things that makes parts modeling so appealing to talented individuals who might otherwise be turned down by a major modeling agency.

Linda is always on the look-out for fresh talent and has been known to pluck potential models right off the street. That's exactly what happened to Katie Chonacas, a stunning brunette whose hair falls around mid-back.

“I was in L.A. having brunch with a girlfriend. When I got up to leave, Linda ran up to me and explained who she was,” Katie says. “So, I guess you could say I was discovered!”

 

As for the stunning strands that caught Linda's attention, Katie says, “My hair is 100% natural. I have never put color on it.”

At just 5'5", Katie might not make it as a runway model. But thanks to the natural beauty of her hair, she's able to make a living in the industry.

As you can imagine, hair models must take extra good care of their tresses. Regular split end trims and conditioning treatments are a must.

“I tell my girls to keep their hair out of the sun,” Linda says. “Keep it coated in conditioner, tied in a knot and covered with a hat.”

Model Doris Weldon, a natural redhead with corkscrew curls, takes the advice to heart and tells other aspiring models, “take care of your hair in the same manner you take care of your skin. Use products with UV ray protection, moisturize, and never brush.”

 

Doris says she was introduced to Linda's agency by word-of-mouth.

“I sent Linda an email and directed her to my Web site where I have a gallery of photos. Linda replied and asked me to attend her open call.” Doris signed with the agency shortly thereafter. It's exactly this process that Linda recommends to all aspiring hair models.

“Submit a picture of your hair to an agency, either a snapshot or a digital photo. It doesn't have to be a professional picture,” Linda says.

For natural “curlyheads,” Linda recommends taking two photos: one showing the natural curls and one with the hair straightened.

Linda advises against paying photographers or modeling schools thousands of dollars to create portfolios or composite cards. Once a model is signed, a legitimate agency will usually help a model put together the materials she needs to land jobs.

Once you've decided to pursue a hair modeling career, the pros say that research and Testimonialsing are vital.

“The only right way of getting there would be to have experience, Testimonials, and focus,” Katie says. “In time, you'll grow and become closer to your dreams.”

Doris says, “Seek out opportunities. Don’t wait for an agent to knock on your door… not gonna happen. Knock on his or her door.”

Practice is also extremely important, according to Doris.

“Stand in front of the mirror and pose. Try it with and without music. Look in magazines and try to copy the poses you see the models doing. Join free modeling Web sites and post your photos asking for feedback, but be prepared to take constructive criticism and be open to advice on how to better position yourself regarding your best angles,” she says.

If you have the good fortune to sign with an agency, be sure you review their policies regarding any changes to your hair.

According to Linda Teglovic, her agency requires the client to sign a contract stating what can and cannot be done to a model's hair during a shoot.

“Temporary styles or looks are fine, but I just can’t take drastic measures when it comes to my hair,” Doris says. “The long, red curls make me who I am. . .it would be like Cindy Crawford having her mole removed.”

The Longhairlovers Interview With Guy Kramer

Early in his career, Guy Kremer learned the importance of artfully dressing long hair. While working at the Hans of Vienna salon in Winchester, England, in the 1970's, Kremer found himself dressing some notable royal manes. These noble ladies all had long hair and all had one particular fashion accessory in common.

“They came into the salon with magnificent tiaras inside ebony boxes,” Kremer said. “I had to style their hair around the tiaras and became very good with long hair.”

Before that time, however, Guy (pronounced “Gee”) said he was just like many hairdressers still are today: afraid of long hair.

“I didn't know how to manage it,” he said. “Then I had the opportunity to watch Alexandre de Paris, the world maestro of long hair.” Guy was hooked, and said he “dove into” long hair fashion.
Today, Guy Kremer runs the eponymous L'Oreal Professional Colour Expert Salon in Winchester, England. He travels extensively dressing hair for top fashion shows, platform shows and competitions. In 1997, he was voted one of the Top 75 Educators of the Century by Modern Salon Magazine.

Kremer has immortalized his amazing updos in The Art of Dressing Long Hair (Thompson, 2004). More of an artsy coffee-table book than a how-to manual, Kremer said the book fills a void in the publishing world.

“There was a need for this book, showing what kind of hairstyles work with certain clothes” he said. “I show how to match hairstyles to different wardrobes, from haute couture to updated classics.” The book has been wildly successful, with the first printing selling out in just six months.

Believing it's impossible to create gorgeous updos without healthy hair, Kremer recommends using “the right products.” These include shampoos, conditioners and treatments from L'Oreal (he loves the Hot Style protective spray), Redken, and Kerastase. And from the Guy Kremer Hair Care Line, available exclusively through Wal-Mart stores in the United States.

Kremer advises his high-profile clients (including The Duchess of York and Jerry Hall) to avoid too much friction. "Repeatedly running your fingers through your hair is damaging," he said. He also recommends using a silicone-based serum to seal moisture in long hair's ends and says it's important to keep hair “under wraps when in the sun.”

Kremer believes strongly in regularly using deep conditioning treatments and leaving them in as long as possible. But he cautions against hot oil treatments.

“Hot oil is a myth,” he said. “It just coats the hair and gives a false impression that it's creating healthy hair.”

Perhaps the most important tip of all, according to Kremer, is having split ends professionally trimmed every 5 to 6 weeks. “It won't remove length, but will prevent damage from traveling up the hair shaft,” he said.

In parting, Kremer compared beautiful long hair to good shoes: “It's a projection of your femininity,” he said. “Don't neglect it – spend money on it and treat it right.”

The Longhairlovers Interview With Dr. George Michael

While talking with long hair guru Dr. George Michael by phone from his home in Florida, I found that it was important to understand the man first before trying to understand his passion for long hair.

George Michael Selisky was born to Russian nobility long before Lenin, Stalin, and communism took over his beloved land. His mother was an opera singer with incredible floor-length hair.

As a child, he would watch his mother and his aunts brush out their magnificent manes and create intricate updos before entertaining in their extravagant halls. But, the Russian Revolution soon caught up with them and George's entire family was killed by the ruthless Stalin. Somehow, young George was the only one to escape.

George attended medical school and was drafted into the Russian Army. He moved up to lieutenant commander and then became a major at the age of 23. But George was captured by the Nazis during World War II and spent two years as a prisoner of war in a Nazi concentration camp.

The years 1943 to 1945 were some of the most difficult of young George's life. He watched beautiful European women with waist-length and longer hair forced into warehouses only to emerge with completely shaven heads. According to Dr. Michael, it was the Nazis way of "breaking" their prisoners and taking away their identities. But, Dr. Michael told me, the women still held their heads high, unwilling to succumb to the Nazi's attempts at humiliation.

American troops eventually freed George and he decided to move to the United States with just the clothes on his back. It was at this point that George Michael Selisky decided to drop his last name. He also decided to use his medical training to help women around the world grow the beautiful hair he had seen destroyed during the war.

Dr. Michael enrolled in beauty school and was told that as a doctor, he was much too overqualified to work on women's hair. He persisted, however, graduated, and rented two chairs at a New York City salon. He developed his own system, based on medical science, for growing and maintaining beautiful long hair. (click here for more on the George Michael system). In time, he had made enough money to buy his own salon. Dr. Michael's empire has grown ever since and today, at the age of 81, he owns some 2,000 salons around the world dedicated to long hair.

One of the major questions I asked Dr. Michael during our phone conversation was, "Is it possible to have long, healthy hair in your 30s, 40s, 50s, and beyond?" His answer was a qualified "yes!", but he explained that there are conditions attached.

First of all, Dr. Michael explained that the most important step for growing the longest, healthiest hair possible is to have hair that's all one length. That means absolutely no bangs (or "fringe", to our European friends). Dr. Michael told me, "Bangs are like worms!", which I took to mean they're a pretty bad thing. Fortunately, he explained what he meant.

"Hair is not at its strongest with bangs or layers," Dr. Michael said. "Because humans are mammals, nature will try to equalize the hair by excessively shedding in order to even out all the shorter hairs. This creates an abnormal loss of hair which leads to unhealthy, straggly locks."
Dr. Michael also explained that people, especially women, with blunt-cut long hair have the strongest, healthiest hair possible.

"The longer the hair, the stronger the root," Dr. Michael said. "That's because the root has to work more to support the length. And stronger hair is healthier hair that falls out less."

To prove this point, Dr. Michael says hair that's cut in a 4-inch style may lose up to 87 hairs a day; hair that's 12-inches long loses up to 26 hairs a day; waist-length hair loses 16 hairs a day, and floor-length hair loses just two hairs a day.

As far as growing hair faster, Dr. Michael says, "Hair typically grows just 6 inches per year. I know of just three places in the world where women grow more than half-an-inch per month: Tehuantepec, Mexico; the Piedmont Province of northern Italy, and in parts of Minnesota. Those areas lack iodine in the water, which causes severe thyroid dysfunctions including bulging eyes and horrible weight gain. But, their hair is known to grow up to 6 inches per month."

They also shed their hair 60 times during their lifetime, as opposed to healthy people who shed most during six periods in our lifetimes: from birth to age three; at 10, 22, 26, 36, and 54. These "shedding times" are all related to hormonal changes in our bodies and are the body's way of ensuring a six-inch growth rate per year; no more, no less.

So, how does one go about growing out those pesky bangs?

"The hair grows from left to right on your forehead. Part your hair on the left as your bangs grow out. Once they're long enough, part your hair on the right so your hair does 'push-ups' and doesn't appear flat. Once your bangs reach chin-length, you'll notice a serious reduction in fall-out."
As for my question about long hair and age, Dr. Michael told me, "Age is irrelevant. With long hair, a woman's beauty is timeless."

The Longhairlovers Interview with Combmaker Ric Carpenter

Ric Carpenter, "The Combmaker" of Sierra Legacy Hardwood Combs in Oregon, is a firm believer that hardwood combs are not only good for your hair, they're good for the environment and for society.

RC: "Twenty five years ago, I was working in quality control in Los Angeles. I put a prayer or dream out there because I wanted to live in the country, breath deep and have a life outside the fast lane.

"I had no clue of course, had never worked in wood. One thing led to another and I took a caretaker position looking at, more than after, 20 acres in the country. Part of my dream was to find a livelihood that was good for me and the person receiving that handmade product. Hardwood combs do just that. I believe we affect each other one way or the other all the time. This is how I am pursuing peace on earth."

LHL: "On your site, you say that you hand make your combs with special tools you developed."

RC: "I developed the concept and had the saw and jigs built by a machinist. I have been making combs this way for 20 years now."

LHL: "Why are hardwood combs better for hair than any other type?"

RC: "A well-crafted wide tooth comb slides smoothly through hair, without stretching the hair. It will not strip the hair's oils, it feels good on the scalp and in the hand, and it gets better with age, much like people do. Prized possessions sometimes do not have to cost a great deal."

Large and Small Handle Detangler Combs

Ric offers four hand carved styles to choose from: a Long Handled Comb for medium to long hair, a Palm Comb suitable for purse or pack, a Braiding Comb, a Vest Pocket Comb, a Small Comb and an Anti-Gravity hair pin.

In addition to the variety of styles, Ric carves his combs from different types of wood, including Black Cherry, Peruvian Black Walnut, Birdseye Maple, Quilted Maple, White Oak, Madrone, Hawaiian KOA, Padouk, Pareba Rosa, Santos Mahogany, Canary Wood, Goncala Alves, Bubinga, Purpleheart and Che Chen.

Each order includes a brochure with photos of long-haired beauties Crystal Gayle and Mary Tucker along with the words, "Your hair . . . is important to you, so celebrate it with your own wooden comb."

To learn more, visit

www.combmaker.com.

The Longhairlovers Interview: Victoria Gotti

 Victoria Gotti is nearly as well known for her cascading blonde hair as she is for her family name.

"My father always loved long hair," she says of the late John Gotti, who died in prison in 2002.
In case you're somehow not familiar with the Gotti name, here's a brief history: John Gotti -- a.k.a. The Teflon Don or The Dapper Don -- was convicted in 1992 on racketeering charges and sentenced to life in prison.

As the purported boss of the Gambino crime family, John's power shifted to his son, John Jr., who pleaded guilty in 1999 to his own racketeering charges. Victoria's ex-husband, Carmine Agnello, was also sentenced to a 9-year sentence for racketeering and tax fraud.

Regardless of what has gone on in the Gotti household, Victoria has always been extremely close to her father. She has called him her best friend and "the most dynamic, charismatic man" she has ever known. So it stands to reason that her decision to keep her hair long stemmed from her desire to please him.

"I've always had long hair. Then as a teenager, I let my friends cut my hair short with a D.A. in the back. It was essentially a man's hair cut. I cried afterward and when I got home, I thought my father was going to pass out. I never had the urge to cut it again."

Victoria Gotti grew up in Brooklyn as the second of two girls and three boys born to John and her mother, also named Victoria. At first, John was said to have been disappointed that the young Victoria was a girl. But all that "evaporated when he saw my black hair and green eyes. He called me his mini-Elizabeth Taylor," she wrote in a tribute to her father in the New York Daily News.

"I have very curly, thick, ethnic Italian hair," she says. To create the straight blonde look she loves, Victoria relies on Louis Licari in Manhattan and the Ambiance salon on Long Island. At home, Victoria swears by Pantene products to keep her nearly 30-inch-long mane in top shape.

"I'm a die-hard Pantene person," she says. "Their conditioner is the best product out there."
Victoria's other hair secrets include shampooing every other day ("I think it looks nicer and better on the second day"), deep conditioning once a week, and donning a satin scarf at night.
"I literally tie my hair in a knot with the satin scarf and it smoothes my hair as I sleep," she says.

As she gets older, Victoria says she doesn't believe in the old adage that women "of a certain age" should crop their hair.

"Long hair makes a woman look sophisticated," she says, "while shorter hair makes her look older. Why put yourself in the category of being an 'older woman' by cutting your hair? Perhaps it's because women don't have the patience or the time it takes to care for longer hair."

If anyone is pressed for time these days, it's Victoria. She writes a column for Star Magazine, has been named editor of Red Carpet Magazine, has written a book on women and heart disease, and finished four novels. As if that's not enough, she stars in her own reality show, Growing Up Gotti, with sons Carmine, Frank and John.

The Longhairlovers Interview: Native American Bodybuilder Sunshine Spring Moose

 "The longer the hair, the stronger the spirit," says bodybuilder Sunshine Spring Moose when explaining how her Native American background has influenced her decision to keep her hair long.

It is this strong spirit, combined with her strong body, that recently won the 26-year old the title of NPC (National Physique Committee) Kentucky State Bikini Champion. Bikini is a recently new category in bodybuilding competitions, which also include Figure and Fitness for women.

In bodybuilding, the obvious focus is on muscle definition, symmetry, and body leanness. But overall grooming affects the final outcome of any serious competition, and Spring has chosen to remain a long-haired girl in a sea of short hair.

"During competition 25% of your score is appearance: Hair, Skin, Complexion," Spring says. "Many people have short hair so I like to show the length."

In fact, Spring says she'll never cut her hair because it not only sets her apart in the bodybuilding world -- it's also an important part of her Native American heritage and identity. Still, competing with long hair has its challenges.

"I believe your hair is your glory," Spring says. "But my hair is so long and thick that it can be heavy and doesn't want to hold a curl. So, when competing, having long hair can be a difficult task."

To get her hair in tip-top shape for competition, Spring uses a Chi Straightning Iron and shine serum "to make sure it's super sleek and tame."

Spring says her White Mountain Apache ancestors had their own methods for taming their locks. "I have heard stories of my ancestors who stiffened their hair with a variety of plant extracts, animal grease, or mud," she says.

When competing, Spring has been known to try different hairstyles for variety while still showing off the length. She also likes experimenting with traditional hairstyles when attending Native American events.

"Yearly when we gather for traditional ceremonies I will add a variety of hair ornaments to my styled hair," Spring says. "Sometimes I use beaded bands, bull's tails, feathers, and rawhide strips wrapped with brass wire and decorated with dentalium shells, or long tubular shaped white shells, and beads."

Spring's super clean bodybuilding diet is no doubt partially responsible for her healthy tresses. She uses a George Foreman grill to cook protein-rich chicken, turkey, and other meats. She also steams her vegetables to retain their nutrients.

Another important part of Spring's diet are nutritional supplements from Beverly International.
"I always take a Beverly Super Pak. This is great for your hair, skin and nails, especially when on a restricted diet," Spring says. She also believes strongly in taking a serious multivitamin.
According to Spring, "Hard training and strict dieting cause increased oxidative stresses on the body. Beverly International's Advanced Antioxidant Compound is a crucial support element to counteract exercise induced oxidative muscle damage, or EIOMD. I highly recommend it for competitors or serious athletes."

Spring eats five meals a day when training:

Meal 1: 3 oz lean meat, 1 egg, 3 egg whites, 1/2 C. oatmeal; 1/2 grapefruit with Splenda.
Meal 2: Beverly International UMP vanilla shake.
Meal 3: Chicken patty made with 3 egg whites, a 3 oz can of chicken, and 1/2 C. oats fried in 1 tsp olive oil, salt and pepper.
Meal 4: BI Chocolate Muscle Provider shake.
Meal 5: 5 oz chicken or lean beef patty, 1 cup salad, 1/2 C. broccoli.
Meal 6: UMP chocolate made into pudding.

2009 was a great year for Spring's bodybuilding career. In addition to winning the Kentucky Bikini Championships, Spring placed second at the IFBB show in Cleveland, Ohio, and placed in the top five at New York's Team Universe competition. She also placed in the top 10 in the NPC Nationals in Hollywood, Florida.

In 2010, Spring says she's working harder than ever and is "looking forward to holding that Pro Card in my hands soon!"

To follow Spring's career, visit her online at www.sunshinespringfitness.com. For more information on training and nutrition, contact her at spring@sunshinespringfitness.com.

Starting Over With Style: The Longhairlovers Interview With Andy Paige

Photo courtesy centsofstyle.com

 Andy Paige is a relentless hunter. Not for big game, mind you, but for beauty bargains of all kinds - clothes, makeup, hair care - you name it.

"I love a bargain," Paige said from her office in New York City. "I take a hunter's approach to beauty probably because of where I grew up in Alabama. The men went hunting and fishing at 5 a.m. then came home and displayed their prizes. I do the same with shopping."

I had the good fortune to speak with Paige on the one-year anniversary of her first day in the Starting Over House. If you're not familiar with Starting Over, it's the first reality series to hit daytime television. Women of all ages and backgrounds live and learn from each other, as well as from life coaches Rana Walker and Ronda Britten. Each woman works toward her personal goals, and when she achieves them (and officially "starts over"), she graduates from the house with great fanfare.

Paige's primary goal was to learn to trust herself and other women so she could grow a successful career in the beauty industry. It took 8 1/2 weeks in the house for Paige to develop the confidence and courage she needed to break out on her own.

"Graduating from the Starting Over House was the beginning, not the end," Paige said. "Everything wasn't automatically fixed. I couldn't just sit back and expect success to fall in my lap. Once the door was cracked, I was relentless in following a lead to the ends of the earth."

Paige's unrelenting spirit has paid off. Since leaving the house, she has founded Cents of Style, an organization dedicated to helping women build their wardrobes for $100 or less. She is a spokesperson for Nice 'N Easy and Colgate, and is a much sought-after beauty consultant, leading both private and group "Beauty Boot Camps". Projects in the works include a book, television show, cosmetic coaching videos, and Style Contributor duties for a major magazine.

A Dream Come True:
Andy's Own Make Up Brush Set

Of all of these projects, however, Paige positively lights up when talking about the Andy Paige Cosmetic Brush Set - her new line of top-of-the-line makeup brushes at a down-to-earth price.
 

Photo courtesy centsofstyle.com

"This is the brush set of my dreams," Paige said, "and it's economical for all women. It's truly the last set of cosmetic brushes you'll ever have to buy."
Paige said good brushes are so important because the right tools allow for the best cosmetics application - no matter what kind of makeup you use.

"Natural brush hair makes such a difference when it comes to blending makeup," she said. "That's because natural hair, such as goat, squirrel, sable and mongoose, contain pores - tiny pockets that collect color and allow for even placement."

Paige is so knowledgeable about beauty because she began working in the industry as a model at age 13. She signed with such top agencies as Wilhelmina and Ford, and moved to New York when she was 17. Two major tragedies in her life, however - the death of her twin sister and being sexually assaulted as a teenager - altered the path her life would ultimately take.

"No one grows when things are going great in life," Paige said. "When bad things happen, you become open to change and learning.

"I went through an 'uglification process' where I used food to fill a void and gained a lot of weight," she said. "I no longer wanted to be attractive and thought my modeling career was over." But her career had only begun. Paige became one of the first full-figured models in the United States and was determined to help others build their confidence and self-esteem through beauty.

"Feeling beautiful can actually make you a more productive and purposeful person. You make eye contact more often when you feel good about yourself."

A major part of feeling beautiful, according to Paige, is a great hair style.

"It's important to keep your hair updated," she said. "You can have long hair, but you must have a style - not just cranial plumage! Updating your hair keeps you current, modern and sophisticated."

Although she believes in investing in the proper hair tools such as a good brush, hair dryer, and flat iron, Paige loves a hair care bargain.

"I'm all about the Suave Professional line (about $1.99 for 14.5 ounces). They mimic the much more expensive brands," she said. "Two of my favorite styling products for creating straight, glossy hair are Citre Shine (about $7 for 4 oz) and John Frieda Secret Weapon (about $5 for 4 oz)."

Although the popularity of hair accessories ebbs and flows, Paige said her perennial favorite is an elegant scarf.

"When used to create a simple chignon, a scarf adds drama to your outfit," she said.

As part of the Starting Over process, Paige had to feel comfortable claiming "expert status" by believing in her talents. Today, women across the country are validating her claim by packing her Cents of Style workshops. For information on where you can see Paige in person, check her online schedule or book her for a personal consultation by emailing bookandy@centsofstyle.com