Natural Hair Color Might Affect Chemical Processes

Believe it or not, natural redheads often have a harder time taking perms and relaxers than people with other hair colors. The reason has to do with the special hair protein, keratin.

The keratin in naturally red hair contains up to twice as much sulphur as other natural hair colors. This sulphur forms very strong chemical links called disulphide bonds that join the keratin chains together. In fact, disulphide bonds are some of the strongest bonds known to nature.

In order for a perm solution or relaxer to work, it must break the disulphide bonds and soften the keratin. The hair is forced into its new shape, usually with rollers, then a neutralizing lotion is applied to reform the bonds and harden the hair. Since redheads have more disulphide bonds to break, a regular perm solution or relaxer may not be strong enough to reshape the hair.

A stronger solution can be used but should only be applied by a knowledgeable professional. Otherwise, the disulphide bonds could be irreversibly damaged, leading to massive breakage.

What gives hair its color? Cells in the hair bulb called melanocytes produce a pigment called melanin. The melanin is carried into the cortex as the hair grows upward. Phaeomelanin is the name of the pigment found in red and blonde hair; Eumelanin is a darker pigment found in black and brown hair.

On an interesting note...

A new study shows that natural redheads need some 20% more anesthesia during surgery than blondes and brunettes.

Dr. Edwin B. Liem, an anesthesiologist at Louisville’s Outcomes Research Institute, discovered that red hair “is apparently an important element” in the decision of how much anesthesia will safely render a person unconscious while increasing pain tolerance and suppressing memory.

Although Dr. Liem says no one knows exactly why red heads need more anesthesia, he says he gueses that “it’s somehow related to the dysfunctional melanocortin 1 receptor.”

These receptors are responsible for hair color. According to the BBC, “Liem believes a dysfunction of this receptor triggers an increase of the hormone that usually stimulates the cells. This happens to be the very same hormone that stimulates a receptor in the brain that governs pain sensitivity.”

"Redheads are likely to experience more pain from most stimuli — surgery is just one example — and therefore require more anesthesia to alleviate that pain,” Liem says.

So, if you’re a natural redhead, be sure to have a long talk with your anethesiologist before going under the knife!

Is Gray The New Blonde?

Recently, fashion's hippest souls have been going gray... on purpose. Perhaps taking their cues from natural silvers such as Jamie Lee Curtis, EmmyLou Harris, and Helen Mirren, members of the younger set are showing up on the red carpet with their own gray locks.

Lady Gaga, Kelly Osborne, and Daphne Guinness are just a few of the lovelies asking their hairdressers for the gray treatment. And now the pinnacle of fashion itself, Vogue Magazine, is getting in on the act.

Vogue's August 2010 "Age Issue" features 40-something model Kristen McMenamy with hip-grazing gray locks. The 10 photos are nothing short of stunning.

According to McMenamy, the gorgeous gray is mostly all her own. She says she decided to stop dyeing it 6 years ago and now sees colorist Josh Wood at Real Hair in London to match a black streak in the center of her hair to the rest of her natural silver.

McMenamy is pleased with the Vogue spread, saying, “I thought all that gray hair would make a beautiful picture.” She adds, “You can get older and still be rock-’n’-roll.”

It's a refreshing turn of events to see today's women embracing natural hair in all its forms. Gray is here to stay, so don't be afraid to grow your own. As Kristen McMenamy says, you can be gray and "still be rock-n-roll."

The Case Against Hair Extensions

First, we here at Longhairlovers not against hair extensions for people with hair loss or thinning hair problems. Weaves can be very helpful for people suffering from these conditions who otherwise wouldn't feel good about themselves.

That said, we just can't stand to see a healthy young person sporting extensions in order to gain a couple of inches of length.

Please consider Exhibit A: Britney Jean Spears

Poor Brit-Brit was spotted out and about looking like THAT.

When asked about the photo, celebrity hair stylist Ken Paves actually defended the weave mishap, telling PEOPLE mag, “It’s not that big of a deal actually, we have all seen this before. A case of bed head, who hasn’t had it?”

He goes on to say, “The truth is that this is exactly how these extensions are applied, however we are not supposed to see them, that’s all. There are thousands and thousands of women walking around whose hair looks just like that ‘underneath’. The remedy is simply to cover it up.”

I shudder to think about the tears these thousands and thousands of women are going to shed when their extensions grow out or are removed, only to reveal their own stubby, dry, broken off strands underneath.

If you can grow your own hair, by all means, do it! Hair grows about 1/2" per month, so you really don't have to wait that long for at least shoulder-grazing tresses. Taking the fast path to longer hair will not only damage your own hair and scalp, it can possibly lead to permanent hair loss due to traction alopecia. If Britney's still not convinced, perhaps she should ask Naomi Campbell, who's showing her own signs of hair loss after years and years of wearing tight weaves.

Naomi's Hair Woes

Naomi Campbell appears to be suffering from Traction Alopecia, a type of hair loss caused when the hair and scalp are pulled too tight for too long.

Recent photos of the supermodel reveal hair breakage and loss around the hair line, which is a classic sign of the disorder.

Hairstyles such as tight braids, twists, buns, ponytails, snug wigs, and the tracks that hold in hair extensions can be to blame. So can sleeping in rollers or other restrictive bedtime hair rituals.

This type of hair loss can take years to become apparent and can be permanent.

The good news is you don't have to give up your favorite hairstyle to avoid traction alopecia. Simply make sure you don't wear a restrictive style for more than a few hours at a time. If you wear hair extensions, try to go without for a few weeks at a time to allow your scalp to breathe. And be sure to practice scalp massage to ensure proper blood flow to your hair and scalp.

Early signs of traction alopecia include broken hairs, redness and swelling around the hair follicles, small pimples, and scaling. If you suspect you're in the early stages of traction alopecia, stop wearing your restrictive hairstyle and see a trichologist or dermatologist for help.

Forgo wigs and weaves and learn to love your natural hair! If you just can't do that, or need some hair pieces to disguise thin spots, make sure they're put in carefully and be sure to massage the areas of scalp where the wefts are attached. Remember that braids are only "protective styles" if you massage and moisturize the scalp. If you wear a ponytail or bun, take it down during the day and run your fingers through your hair to boost circulation before restyling. Any sign of breakage around the hair line should be a red flag that your hairstyle is too tight!

Natural Hair in the Public Eye

T'Keyah Crystal Keymah is a hair pioneer. From the time she first stepped foot on a sound stage for the pilot to what would become the Emmy Award-winning comedy In Living Color, T'Keyah has worn her hair natural.

“Fifteen years ago, no one in prime-time was wearing natural hair, unless they wore locs or a short afro,” T'Keyah says of African-American characters on television.  She knew she was on to something when she started getting fan mail specifically about her hair.

T'Keyah's road to natural hair began like many little girls of African descent: by straightening her curls to fit a beauty ideal that was unnatural for her hair type.

“Growing up, I had my hair pressed straight, and by college I was having it permed,” she says. “But when I realized that I would have to get touch-ups while away at school from a hairdresser I didn't know, I started cutting it out.”

T'Keyah (pronounced Ta-kee-ah) says her hair was just a few inches long and completely natural by Christmas of her first year away from home, but that she gave in and permed it again when she joined a sorority. It took a life-changing trip to Africa before T'Keyah says she began to think differently about her hair.

“While in West Africa, I had my hair wire wrapped and hand-twisted,” she says. “Even though the natural styles were foreign to me at the time, I realized that perming was also foreign to my natural hair type.”

T'Keyah had a newfound freedom in her natural styles and resisted the urge to straighten her hair even when Hollywood came calling.

“While shooting the In Living Color pilot, my hair was still damaged from previous chemical treatments,” she says, “so I could only wear it braided flat to my head.

“When the show was picked up, I started wearing my hair in twists. There were no natural hairstylists on the set, so other than the million wigs I wore, I usually did my hair myself,” she says.
Fans of the show loved T'Keyah's signature look and wanted to know how to get it for themselves.
“The letters kept coming,” she says, “so I began researching natural hair.”

After several years of researching and writing, all while working as a successful actress, T'Keyah self-published her book, Natural Woman/Natural Hair: A Hair Journey.

“I wanted to offer women something different by giving them step-by-step instructions on how to do the styles themselves, instead of assuming anything; even that they knew how to braid,” she says.
“I also wanted the book to be beautiful, with beautiful photos, and with my own hair stories and poetry. The response has been overwhelming.”

As Raven's mom on Disney's hit show, That's So Raven, T'Keyah has the opportunity to reach a whole new audience of young girls and teens.

“I want Black girls to know that their hair is beautiful, however it comes out of their heads,” she says. Judging by the response, the message seems to be getting through.

“I get letters that say things like, 'My daughter stopped pressing and perming her hair because of Raven's mom,' and 'Now my daughter feels good about going to school,'” she says.

T'Keyah is also out to dispel the myth that Black women's hair won't grow long.

“Of course Black hair grows,” T'Keyah says, “otherwise we'd all be bald when the hair reaches the end of its cycle. What's happening is that the hair is breaking off because of the way we treat it,” she says.
T'Keyah says that Black hair “is not as fragile as you think,” and that it can be made even stronger by avoiding things like cotton pillowcases, rubber bands, sponge rollers and wool caps.

Above all, T'Keyah says the book's goal is to show women that each one possesses her own innate beauty.

“No woman should believe that in order to be beautiful you have to be the opposite of what you are.”

Family, God and Hair in the African-American Community

By Keach Hagey,Assistant Managing Editor,
The Queens Chronicle(Reprinted with permission)

 
A drive through Southeast Queens, with its well-kept houses, abundant churches and ubiquitous hair salons, reveals three things are very important to this middle class, mostly African-American community: family, God and hair.

According to local hairstylist and historian Carla Brown, these things have always been strongly intertwined in African culture.

“The whole concept of extensions had to do with the ancestors. They would cut the locks of those who passed on. If somebody had long hair, it meant they understood the spirits,” Brown said. “Everything we do now is just a re-creation. There is nothing new under the sun.”

She recently gave a talk at the St. Albans branch of the Queens Public Library titled Hairbraiding As An Art Form: The Art and History of Braids, tracing the 5,000-year history of braiding and dreadlocks to its roots in Egyptian, Native American and Eastern cultures.

Introduced to the world of braiding by a classmate in elementary school, Brown has gone on to write a book on the subject and teach an art history course at York College. She uses her historical research and travels to Africa as inspiration for her hairstyling work at her own salon, Beyond Braids in Brooklyn, and her consulting work with more than 20 salons.

Divine Nubian Creations, a small, all-natural salon located in the Rochdale Mall in Springfield Gardens, is one of them. Owner Charmaine Brooks shares much of Brown’s philosophy regarding hair.

“The head is the highest spiritual part of the body,” Brooks said. “For those of us who live in the African diaspora, we are very particular about who lays their hands on our heads. It’s in our DNA.” She is a bit more of a purist than Brown when it comes to chemical straighteners, which she sees as part of the traumatic cultural legacy of slavery.

Even Brown, who styles all types of hair, agrees that, for her, giving up straightening was the beginning of being able to have long hair. She remembers trying to grow our her relaxed hair during college, having it break off, and having to start all over again. “It’s a vicious cycle that’s devastating and uncomfortable,” she said.

Since the 1990s, the number of hair salons specializing in natural styles—braids, dreadlocks, extensions and other styles that eschew chemical straighteners—has been steadily rising, today making up about half the market.

Brooks sees this as a reclamation of an African cultural heritage that was lost to slavery, and continued to be suppressed all the way through the 1970s and ’80s.
Both she and Brown remember the infamous story of a local African-American female newscaster being fired in the 1970s for wearing her hair in an all-natural afro.
“Most people think of this style as a rebellious style, but it is not,” Brown said.
She pointed out that, contrary to popular belief, dreadlocks did not originate with the Rastafarian culture of Jamaica. Quite common in ancient times, the practice of wearing hair in long, twisted mats continued among Indian holy men through the Industrial Revolution.

At the turn of the 20th century, a socio-religious movement started in Harlem by Marcus Garvey blended Christian, African tribal and Hindu influences and found a following in Jamaica.
The followers of this movement called themselves “dreads,” signifying that they had fear, or respect, for God. Emulating Hindu holy men, they grew matted locks of hair, which became known as dreadlocks. They focused their attention on the Ethiopian Emperor Ras Tafari, and thus became known as Rastafarians.

Today, the locks are just as common in the board room as on an entertainer’s stage. Brooks explained that, because the locks embrace the natural curliness of most African-American hair, they often provide a way for people to grow their hair long, who were unable to do it before.

A set of “starter locks” takes anywhere from two to four hours to twist, and costs about $100 at her salon. Like any other hairstyle, it requires daily maintenance, and can be styled in an endless variety of ways.

While Brooks specializes in dreadlocks and coloring, Brown is a master braider. Her clients include many entertainers, of both sexes and all ethnicities, looking for a signature look. One photograph in her portfolio shows a woman with a hat, complete with tassel, made entirely of braided hair. Brown has given some of her clients such fine braids that they took three eight-hour days to put in.

Despite the increasing popularity of braids and locks, Brown said that traditional beauty schools have been slow to include them in their curricula. At the same time, the styles are spreading rapidly in Japan, where they are called “hip-hop hair.”

Brown sees it as her mission to dispel the many myths surrounding the role of hair in ancient cultures—such as the common misconception that Ancient Egyptians did not grow their hair long—and to continue inventing new hairstyles.

“I get hit with visions all the time,” she said. “Some people let me experiment on them. Other times, I have to experiment on myself.” As greater awareness of hair heritage spreads, Brooks is confident that more people will want these styles.

“Aesthetically, we feel fabulous, because we focus on our naturalness,” she said.

Island Braids

When traveling to the Caribbean, it's hard not to notice the intricate cornrows and micro-braids worn by both residents and tourists alike. I had the opportunity to see these incredible hair creations in person during a recent trip to the beautiful island of St. Lucia.

It's common for St. Lucian residents who choose not to relax their Afro-Caribbean hair, to create braids that look beautiful and keep their faces and necks cool (The average temperature is about 80 degrees Fahrenheit).

Many women decorate the ends of their braids with colorful beads and seashells. Visitors to the island also embrace braids for the same reasons and as a fun "souvenir" to wear home.

St. Lucian resident Chermaine models her braids in an elaborate updo.

Missouri native Julie sports three micro braids adorned with beads as a tropical fashion statement.

I had the good fortune to meet with Catherine, a St. Lucian resident who has been braiding hair since childhood, although she prefers to wear her hair relaxed. Catherine now works as a master hairdresser for a resort and said that braids are extremely popular with tourists.

When I asked what was the longest hair she had ever braided, Catherine said she once spent four hours creating a full head of micro-braids for a woman with classic-length hair. Since I couldn't picture myself sitting in her chair for that long, I asked for just three micro-braids like she had just completed for Julie, a visitor from Missouri.

Catherine's first step was to decide how wide to make each micro-braid based on the thickness of the hair. Mine were about 1/4" wide. Next, she spritzed my hair with water for more control over the strands. She twisted my hair at the scalp where she then began braiding. Her hands were literally a blur as she worked her way down to my ends - the result of many years of practice! Although many women with Afro-Caribbean hair singe their ends to seal the braids, Catherine used a tiny piece of tinfoil to wrap my ends and keep the beads in place.

Catherine separates my hair into tiny sections to begin braiding.

Her hands move lightning-fast as she completes each braid.

She adds beads and wraps the ends with tiny bits of tinfoil.

Catherine explained that although cornrows don't work well on thin or fine hair, micro-braids can be worn by nearly everyone. Cornrows start at the very top of the scalp and gather hair on the way down, much like French braids. Micro-braids are only attached at one point on the scalp and are able to swing freely. Women with Afro-Caribbean hair can wear their braids for up to 6 weeks, while people of other ethnicities usually have to remove them sooner as the braids start to loosen and look unkempt.

When she was finished, Catherine gave me the following tips:

• Dab sunscreen where the braids begin and the scalp is exposed in order to prevent burning in the hot sun
• Wash the scalp with shampoo and allow it to drip down the braid - don't shampoo the braid itself
• Coat braids daily with conditioner or oil to keep them in good shape
• To remove braids, use conditioner or oil to detangle as you gently unravel them.
• Long hair-friendly suggestions for Caribbean-style hair braiding:
• Coat ends in conditioner before covering with foil. This will keep them from drying out and frizzing
• Coat your hands with oil and gently run them over each braid to keep them conditioned
• Take your time when removing braids and enlist the help of a friend if your hair is extra-long to avoid snarls
• After removing braids, immediately wash hair with warm water and deep condition it to return hair to its normal texture.

 

A traditional Caribbean shampoo recipe called for soaking hibiscus leaves in water, then working the green extraction into the hair and scalp. Coconut oil was used as a conditioner.

The Longhairlovers Interview: Holistic Hair Guru Anthony Morrocco

Famed hairdresser Anthony Morrocco believes that healthy long hair is more than a physical pursuit; it's a spiritual one.

"Long hair is powerful for women. When a woman cuts her long hair, she chops off her goddess energy. Hair doesn't belong to the material world," he continues, "It belongs to the ethereal world, which is why doctors and dermatologists have a tough time with it."

If you're new to the world of holistic hair care, don't let Anthony Morrocco's New Age-speak frighten you. This man knows what he's talking about. Trained under the famous Kenneth of New York in the 1960?s -- a man Morrocco calls "the foremost authority on cutting hair" -- Anthony Morrocco's client list has included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Lauren Bacall, Faye Dunaway, Liza Minnelli and Mia Farrow.

Morrocco joined Kenneth's in 1964 and apprenticed with the master for a full month before ever touching a client. During this time, he learned Kenneth's "blunt snip" cutting technique that left his clients with healthy hair and classic -- never trendy -- styles.

Morrocco became interested in holistic hair care from another Kenneth's employee, a Hungarian woman named Rita.

"Rita was a botanist who made individualized hair care preparations for Kenneth's customers," Morrocco says. "She never shared her formulas with anyone until I made her a deal -- teach me about natural hair care and I'll introduce you to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis." This was an offer Rita couldn't refuse.
After learning about harvesting plants and mixing natural products, Morrocco left Kenneth's in 1968 and spent 2 1/2 years in Europe. He traveled to small town barber shops throughout the English, Italian and French countrysides and learned all about folk hair care techniques and treatments. Another important lesson had to do with lunar cycles.

"There's a famous village in Scotland named Findhorn that's mostly rock, yet the farmers grow the most beautiful fruits and vegetables," Morrocco says. "That's because they work with the ancient moon cycles to plant and harvest when the time is right. They work with love as their chief feature in sewing and harvesting their crops."

His interest piqued in moon cycles, Morrocco headed to Brazil to study lunar charting with a shaman, or holy man. There he learned about a special astrology for cutting hair.
"If I had told people in the village that I was getting a hair cut, they would have looked at me like I was crazy if it wasn't the right date for a hair cut," Morrocco says.

In addition to cutting hair by the moon cycles, the Brazilian villagers also picked and bottled plants and herbs for hair care preparations using the lunar calendar.

Today, Morrocco bottles his own line of holistic hair care products that are "blended and bottled using the ancient farmers' moon cycle." The ingredients include natural soapbark from Chilean evergreen trees, organic liquefied crystals from India and Tibet, and southwestern white healing clays. Many of his clients include homeopathic medical doctors and detox clinics with patients looking to completely eliminate chemicals from their lives.

If you're interested in exploring holistic hair care, Morrocco says the approach is multi-faceted and includes:

*Using natural products and correct brushing techniques
*Eating an organic diet ("eat live food to produce live cells," Morrocco says)
*Exercising for scalp and blood stimulation
*Using eastern astrology
*and balancing your emotional and spiritual life.

Morrocco says these holistic "spokes in the wheel" work together to create long, luxurious hair. The next important factor is finding the right stylist to help you on your quest.
First, he says, when you see a woman with gorgeous long hair, compliment her and find out who does her hair. Next, schedule a consultation with the stylist and trust your instincts.

"Don't give hairdressers too much power," Morrocco warns. "You want a very concerned person working on your hair," not someone who rushes you around or who wants to cut your hair their way without concern for your wishes.

"And there should never be a charge for a consultation," Morrocco says. Make sure you tell him or her that you want to grow thick, long hair and ask about trimming methods to help you achieve your goal.

Morrocco says that most women who think they can't grow long hair really have a problem with breakage, not growth.

"60 to 90% of hair breakage occurs from the bottom," he says. With the right type of trimming and care, this breakage can be prevented, which will allow hair to finally achieve a desired length.

For more information on Anthony, visit www.morroccomethod.com