Elasticity and Hair Health

One of the most important properties of healthy hair is its elasticity. Healthy hair will always “spring back” to its original shape after being stretched. In fact, healthy wet hair can be stretched by up to 30% without breaking.

If your hair won’t take a curl or breaks off at the scalp when you brush or style it, you probably have poor elasticity.

To test your hair’s elasticity, pluck a single hair from your head and gently stretch it. The hair should stretch by about one-third, then bounce back to its original shape. If it doesn’t stretch, bounce back, or simply breaks off, you have poor elasticity.

Poor elasticity is caused by damage to the keratin fibers in the cortex. (Remember that the cortex is the center part of the hair responsible for hair’s strength and elasticity).

The damage is usually caused by too many chemical treatments like bleaching, coloring and perming; excessive heat from blow dryers and hot irons; and exposure to UV rays – either from the sun or tanning beds.

If your hair has poor elasticity, do not perm, straighten, color or bleach it. Your hair can’t handle any chemical treatment at this point and will probably break off or turn into a frazzled mess. If you have a salon appointment and are worried about your hair’s elasticity, ask the stylist to give you his or her opinion. An ethical stylist would never perform a chemical service on hair in poor shape. Instead of processing your hair, sign up for a series of deep conditioning treatments.

This will increase the moisture content of your hair and strengthen it for future chemical processing. You and your stylist can work together to determine when your hair is ready.

How Chemical Processes Damage Hair

All chemical processes damage hair in one way or another. The trick is to balance the desired result with as little damage as possible.

Permanent wave and chemical straighteners (or “relaxers”) work by breaking the hair’s disulphide bonds. (These bonds are responsible for much of our hair’s strength and can only be broken with very strong chemicals.) The hair is either curled or straightened into its new shape, then the chemical bonds are allowed to reform into their new positions.

There is inevitably some lifting of the cuticle and weakening of the cortex during this process.

When using bleach or hair dye, the chemicals must penetrate the hair shaft and alter the cortex. The hair follicle in the scalp is not affected, as evidenced by the dark “roots” that grow in after a few weeks. 

Repeated chemical treatments that are too strong, too quick in succession or applied improperly can cause excessive damage that wears away the cuticle and causes the hair to break. The good news is that chemical processes can’t cause you to lose your hair because they don’t penetrate the scalp. Only a severe burn caused by the chemicals can actually kill hair follicles and stop future growth.

To keep your hair healthy and properly elastic, you must keep the cortex in good shape.

Here’s how:

• Make an effort to use less heat (blow dryers, straightening irons, etc.) and fewer chemicals on your hair.
• Increase the moisture content of your hair by using products with Panthenol (also called Vitamin B5 and Pantothenic Acid), the only nutrient proved to penetrate the hair shaft and strengthen the cortex.
• Make sure you get enough sulphur in your diet through foods such as garlic, onions and eggs. The main protein in the hair’s cortex is sulphur-rich keratin; too little sulphur weakens the hair and causes it to react poorly to cosmetic treatments. One form of sulphur is called MSM (methylsulfonylmethane).

The Evolution of Hair Science

A book published in 1901 called Macfadden's New Hair Culture: Rational, Natural Methods For Cultivating Strength and Luxuriance Of The Hair shows just how far hair science has come over the years.

Following are some interesting, and often comical, excerpts that have been disproved over the years:

·         “The principal reason why a woman's hair is stronger, and grows longer than the opposite sex, is that it is allowed to grow long from very early youth. The combing and general care of the hair necessary in the life of a girl also strengthen the hair very greatly.”

·         “Some claim that women, being less engaged in mental labor, and having less business worries, are able to secure a more constant and even supply of blood to the scalp.”

·         “When the hair is allowed to grow long in the early life of a girl, the nourishment of long hair is possible, but when kept closely cropped as in boys, conditions are decidedly different. The scalp is not so thick and not so much blood is attracted to it, and naturally when weakness or conditions are such as to produce a weakening influence on the hair, the male is far more liable to lose his hair than would a female whose hair is more strongly rooted and nourished.”

·         “Dead hairs should never be allowed to remain in the scalp; they should be plucked as soon as they can be easily removed. Under these circumstances, if they are removed another hair always grows from the same follicle or root sheath; but if this dead hair is allowed to remain until it falls out on its own accord, it often kills the root, and the hair never grows again.”

·         “Baldness cannot be inherited any more than can consumption.”

·         “The hair obtains its color from the coloring glands situated nearer the surface than the hair-root. When these glands are destroyed by any means the hair naturally loses its color.”

·         “The direct rays of the sun are a tonic of great value for the hair; they impart a luster and richness of color which can be acquired in no other way...Sun the hair all you can on every occasion.”

·         “The color of the hair seems to have quite an influence upon woman's chances in marriage. A far greater proportion of light-haired women live and die unmarried than those with dark hair.”

The Seven Sutherland Sisters

The Seven Sutherland Sisters of Lockport New York were world-famous for their incredible hair, which reportedly had a collective length of 37 feet.

Around 1884, when the Sisters were traveling with Barnum and Bailey's Greatest Show on Earth, their father realized that crowds flocked to see the girls' long hair more than their singing act.

Fletcher Sutherland mixed together a liquid concoction that he called The Seven Sutherland Sisters Hair Grower. He sent a bottle to a chemist for an analysis and received the following testimonial:

"Cincinnati, Ohio, March, 1884: - Having made a Chemical Analysis of the Hair Grower prepared by the Seven Long Haired Sisters, I hereby certify that I found it free from all injurious substances, being largely composed of vegetable preparations. It is beyond question the best preparation for the hair ever made and I cheerfully endorse it. -- J.R. Duff, M.D., Chemist."

A 1907 analysis of the product showed the following contents: 28.4% alcohol, about 1% solids with traces of borax and quinine.

The Seven Sutherland Sisters Corp. bottled and distributed the Hair Grower from New York City and sold $90,000 worth the first year. They soon added a Scalp Cleanser, a Seven Sutherland Sisters Comb and eight shades of Hair Colorators.

Ad Slogans

●  "Remember ladies it is the hair not the hat that makes you beautiful."

●  "A woman's hair is her crowning glory."

The Early Years

The Sisters' mother, Mary, reportedly applied an ointment on the young girls' hair to stimulate growth. Their classmates often complained of the offensive smell.

Perception of Floor-Length Hair

For publicity photos, the Sisters always posed with some sitting or bending at the waist so it appeared that each of them had hair that reached the floor.

The Eighth & Ninth Sisters

When Naomi died in 1893, the Sisters searched for a long-haired substitute to join them. They finally found a woman in Carbondale, Pennsylvania, named Anne Louise Roberts, whose hair was 9-feet long. She toured as one of The Seven Sutherland Sisters from around 1894 to 1902. Another woman, Anna Haney, took the place of Victoria when she died in 1902. Ms. Haney's hair was 6-feet long and she toured with the Sisters from about 1902 to 1906.

Priceless Dolls

Each Sister had a doll made with combings of her own hair. The dolls stood up to three-feet high and were dressed in the most expensive costumes of the period. They were used for window displays to advertise the Sisters' hair products. Two of the dolls are reportedly still owned by Niagara County residents

Long Hair and Insanity

Mary Sutherland had very heavy hair that some people believe led to her spells of mental illness. At the time, people believed that long, heavy hair robbed the brain of nourishment and could lead to insanity.

Expensive Strand

Victoria Sutherland was reportedly offered $2,500 to cut off her 7-foot long hair. She refused that offer, but sold one strand of hair to a jeweler for $25. The jeweler suspended the hair in his shop window with a seven carat diamond at the end.

Shrinking Hair?

In his book, George Michael's Secrets For Beautiful Hair, long hair care expert Dr. George Michael contends that cutting bangs (or fringe) caused the Sisters' hair length to shrink. Dr. Michael attributed the phenomenon to the process of equalization, where hair seeks to have the same length all over the head. Dr. Michael says that within a year, the total length of the Sisters' hair went from 49 feet to 29 feet because of bangs.

Combing Out

Once they made their fortune, each Sister reportedly hired a personal maid to comb out her hair. The maids also had to look after the seven dolls that each sister had made in her likeness.

Masking the Sun

The Sisters were often seen tending to their gardens in the summer wearing cloth masks to protect their hair and faces from the sun.

The Sutherland children were all musically inclined and often performed around New York State as the "Sutherland Concert of Seven Sisters and One Brother." In 1881, they performed at the Atlanta Exposition in Georgia. They traveled with "W.W. Coles Colossal Shows" in 1882 and joined  "Barnum and Bailey's Greatest Show on Earth" by 1884.

The Daily Journal, Lockport, late 1880s

"Miss Sarah N. Sutherland - Known as a fine solo singer, and celebrated for her Scotch and English songs and has long massive hair.

"Miss Victoria Sutherland - Has a mezzo-soprano voice, and has the longest hair on record, being seven feet, or eighty four inches in length.

"Miss Isabella C. Sutherland - Has a high soprano voice, of great flexibility and power, and

has hair six feet in length, of great fineness.

"Miss Grace Sutherland - Sings tenor, and has a sweet melodious voice, and is an excellent Piano accompanist, and has hair between five and six feet in length.

"Miss Naomi Sutherland - The world renowned female Bass Singer, has the most massive hair ever worn by any human being on earth, and which envelopes her whole body as with a garment.

"Miss Dora Sutherland - One of the younger sisters, has an alto voice, and has abundant hair about five feet long.

"Miss Mary Sutherland - Has a soprano voice, and is the youngest of the Seven Sisters, and for her age, has the most wonderful growth of hair, and it is rapidly growing to be the longest and most massive hair in the world."

Three Steps To Healthy Long Hair

First, some facts. Your hair's growth rate is related to the following factors: your age, diet, genetics, hormonal status, blood circulation, stress level, infections, medication, climate, exposure to hair chemicals, and hairdressing techniques.

One dermatological theory says that increased hair loss, thinning, and a short growth cycle are partially due to the body's inability to provide the scalp with the nutrients required for the proper hair growth. The follicles become prematurely dormant and growth shuts down. But, once the follicles start to receive the necessary stimulus and nutrients, new hair may start to grow again faster, longer, and healthier. With that in mind, here are three important steps to growing long healthy hair:

1. Proper Nutrition and Illness Prevention through Food and Supplements

2. Stress Reduction through Aromatherapy and Massage

3. Gentle care of your growing hair

Step One: Proper Nutrition and Illness Prevention

The best way to provide hair follicles with the nutrients they need for active growth is through the bloodstream. In fact, the hair is such a good indicator of the health of the rest of your body that nutritionists can tell whether you're deficient in particular vitamins and minerals just by analyzing a snip of hair. There are certain foods you can eat and supplements you can take to promote optimal hair growth. Let's start with one of the top nutrients needed for healthy, strong hair: Essential Fatty Acids.

Flax Seed Oil is an Omega-3 Essential Fatty Acid (EFA). EFA's include Linoleic Acid (LA) and Alpha Linolenic Acid (LNA). Doctors around the world recognize EFA's as essential nutrients for human health. The problem is that EFA's aren't made in our bodies, so we have to eat them or take them as supplements.

Linoleic Acid is considered the most important EFA. It is a necessity for hair health and growth. Without it, humans suffer from hair loss and dry scaly scalp and skin. Veterinarians are known to recommend LA to improve animals' coats. The richest source of Linoleic Acid is flax seed oil - a must for anyone wanting to grow gorgeous long hair. Flax is a seed that can be eaten raw, used as an oil, and taken in capsule form. Nutritionist Dr. Andrew Weil recommends eating whole flax seeds sprinkled on food in his book, Eight Weeks to Optimum Health.

In addition to flax seed oil, nutritionists recommend the following vitamins and minerals to bolster the EFA's positive effects: Vitamins A, B3, B6, C, E, and the minerals Magnesium and Zinc.

Other supplements necessary for healthy long hair:

Evening Primrose Oil is a good source of Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA), an EFA essential for cell metabolism and growth. This oil, also found in capsule form, aids hair growth and restoration. Other outstanding sources of GLA are Borage Oil and Black Current Oil.

Silica provides collagen essential for luxurious hair growth.

Lecithin is used by every living cell in our bodies. It helps purify your system and aids in the absorption of vitamins A, D, E, and K.

Choline and Inositol are important for hair metabolism.

Calcium is important for actively growing hair follicle cells.

Vitamin E is an excellent antioxidant particularly good for preventing the oxidization of Vitamins A & C, maintains cell membranes and general health of the blood.

Zinc keeps hair follicles from atrophying.

Copper ensures hair pigment.

Manganese and Iron are essential for follicle growth.

Iodine is essential for optimum hair growth.

Niacin has been known to restore hair pigmentation when taken over a long period of time.

Biotin has been called "the hair vitamin" because of its growth benefits.

Hair Growth Vitamins and Minerals in The Food You Eat

The quality of your hair reflects in part the adequacy of your diet. Regular well-rounded meals are best for you and your hair. Iron deficiency due to inadequate consumption of red meat or heavy menstrual bleeding in women, could cause hair loss. So can crash diets and eating disorders.

Vitamin E Sources: polyunsaturated oils and margarines, green veggies, almonds, sunflower seeds, whole grains, eggs, liver, oatmeal.

Fatty Acid Sources: fish (especially salmon and tuna) and vegetables.

Beta-carotene is converted to vitamin A and helps promote healthy skin, hair and nails. It's found in green and yellow vegetables and fruits.

Vitamin A Sources: liver, kidneys, eggs, milk, yellow & green fruit & vegetables (carrots, spinach, apricots, peaches, broccoli, asparagus, yams).

Vitamin B1 (Thiamine) Sources: whole-grain and enriched cereals, pork, beef, lamb, nuts, and legumes.

Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin) Sources: green veggies, blackstrap molasses, brewer's yeast, liver, nuts, whole grains.

Niacin Sources: liver, meat, fish, poultry, peanuts, and enriched cereals. Restores hair pigmentation when taken over a long period of time.

Vitamin B6 Sources: liver, beef, lamb, pork, salmon, whole-grain cereals, lima beans, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy veggies, bananas, avocados.

Vitamin B12 Sources: liver, kidneys, fish, eggs, milk, milk products.

Folic Acid: Dark green leafy veggies, liver, kidneys, milk and milk products, salmon, tuna, dates, whole grains.

Protein is extremely important to proper hair growth. A diet too low in protein can cause thinning hair or a retardation in the growth cycle. Nutritionists recommend brewer's yeast, calves liver, dairy products, fish, eggs, beans, yogurt, and tofu as excellent protein sources.

*Remember, it's never a good idea to drastically change your diet without first checking with your doctor.

Step 2: Stress Reduction through Aromatherapy and Massage

Stress is one of the biggest reasons people are unable to achieve optimal hair growth. When we get tense, the layer of muscle covering the skull tightens up. This is why we get headaches when we're stressed out.

This same tightening restricts the blood supply to the hair follicles. The follicles become undernourished and affect the condition of the hair and the growth cycle. Stress can also lead to oily scalp and hair, and dandruff flare ups.

Hair expert Philip Kingsley says stress causes an overproduction of sebum which leads to oiliness and dandruff. Kingsley also says that stress can cause your hair to turn white or gray because your body becomes depleted in B vitamins, which are necessary for hair pigment.

"Laboratory tests with black rats have shown that feeding them a diet deficient in the B vitamins turned their hair white," reports Kingsley in his The Complete Hair Book (Grove Press).

"On reintroducing vitamin B, the hair regained its color. . . What's so fascinating about all this," says Kingsley, "is that personal stress demands more B vitamins because the body used more of them up. In fact, the B vitamins have become known as the 'nerve vitamins.' So, it wouldn't seem unreasonable to conclude from that that stress could be the underlying cause."

Dermatologist Dr. Irwin Lubowe concurs with Kingsley's stress theory. He cites extreme wartime cases where hair turns white when stress cuts off the melanin produced by the hair's cortex. Dr. Lubowe has treated stress-induced whitened hair by prescribing pantothenate and PABA, while Kingsley prescribes B vitamins in the form of brewer's yeast and defatted liver extract.

In extreme cases, stress can lead to complete temporary hair loss known as alopecia areata. Alopecia causes the scalp to become inflamed at a microscopic level which leads to patchy hair loss. Italian researchers have found that stress lowers the alopecia patients' white blood cell levels which leaves them vulnerable to the condition.

One of the best ways to relax and stimulate blood flow to the scalp is through scalp massage. This promotes hair growth by increasing scalp circulation and nourishment to your hair follicles, which in turn improves the overall condition of your hair. Self massage while shampooing is perhaps the easiest way to increase circulation in your scalp. Simply move the scalp around as much as possible as you shampoo. You can also give yourself a scalp massage on dry hair with the following steps:

1. Use your fingers to make small circles all over your scalp. Start at your forehead and work back over your whole head.

2. Run your fingers through your hair and stroke your scalp.

3. Gently pull sections of your hair until you feel a tug on your scalp.

4. Release and repeat, concentrating on "pulling out" the stress.

Some high-priced spas perform a treatment called "shirodhara" where warm oil is poured over the forehead to soothe the mind by calming the central nervous system. The oil is then gently massaged into the hair. You can also look into Craniosacral Therapy, a head massage used to treat chronic pain, migraine headaches, TMJ and a range of other conditions.

Scalp Health and Hair Growth Through Aromatherapy

A normal scalp has between 24 and 40 layers of dead cells which are constantly moving up to the surface where they are shed. The cycle for each layer takes 28 days.

Scalp massage encourages blood circulation in the scalp and will help alleviate tension that can contribute to hair loss. Some massage oils help moisturize and stimulate the scalp by removing and preventing the build up of dead skin cells.

Adding essential oils to your scalp massage is one of the best ways available to encourage relaxation and stimulate hair growth. This is because essential oils have the ability to penetrate the skin and reach the subcutaneous tissues responsible for youthful, healthy scalp and skin.

Essential Oils and Aromatherapy

Essential oils have been used for thousands of years to remedy a variety of health problems, including hair loss and slow growth. There are approximately 400 essential oils distilled today with approximately 100 used in aromatherapy. The oils are extracted from a variety of plan parts, including the flowers, leaves, wood, resin, and twigs. They have a molecular structure similar to those found in actual human hormones, which is why they provide actual stimulation when applied directly to the skin and scalp.

Aromatherapy uses essential oils to treat and prevent maladies. It works because our olfactory function leads directly to the brain where chemical reactions take place. In addition, essential oils are able to penetrate the skin and travel to the bloodstream where their chemical components produce their desired effects. They are also eliminated quickly, and leave the body between four and six hours after absorption.

Essential oils stimulate the body's own natural healing processes and alleviates tension and stress. Dr. Susan Schiffman, a professor of medical psychology at Duke University, concluded that smell can promote relaxation better than visualization techniques.

Aromatherapy and Hair Growth

An exciting study in the Archives of Dermatology (1998; 134:1349-1352) even finds that aromatherapy can safely and effectively treat temporary hair loss due to alopecia areata and promote new growth. The study was performed by Scottish researchers who had half of their patients massage thyme, rosemary, lavender, and cedarwood essential oils onto their scalps each day. The other patients massaged in "carrier" oils jojoba and grapeseed oil.

After seven months of treatment, 44% of the patients using the essential oils showed significant improvement in hair growth. The group using carrier oils showed just 15% improvement. In addition, the aromatherapy caused no significant side effects. Researchers concluded that not only did the aromatherapy work, it was also far safer than traditional alopecia treatments including conventional steroids. Following is a list of essential oils used throughout the ages to stimulate hair growth.

1. Borage: Prevents scalp conditions and eczema.

2. Cedarwood: Strengthens the hair shaft. Excellent treatment for dandruff and/or oily scalp. Also used to treat nervous and stress-related conditions. Used in haircare, skincare, massage, diffusers, and as perfume.

3. Clary Sage: Alleviates stress-related conditions including high blood pressure, depression, and anxiety. It can produce a state of euphoria and has been used as an aphrodisiac. Promotes estrogen balance in the membrane tissue around the hair follicle. Used to treat dandruff.

4. Geranium: Alleviates oily scalp and inflammations.

5. Jasmine: Acts as an anti-depressant, analgesic, and reputed aphrodisiac. Often used to treat problems with the nervous system such as anxiety and stress. An excellent scalp and skin tonic.

6. Juniper: Used as a hair loss treatment because it stimulates circulation and detoxifies the body.

7. Lavender: Encourages scalp circulation and promotes hair growth. Prevents headaches and hypertension.

8. Neroli (Orange Blossom): Excellent moisturizer for scalp and skin. Soothes nervous tension. Also used as an aphrodisiac.

9. Palmarosa: Helps balance production of sebum. Very beneficial for both extremely dry and oily scalps. Stimulates new cell growth, regulates oil production, moisturizes, and speeds healing.

10. Rosewood: Used for general scalp and skin care. Alleviates depression, stress, and dermatitis.

11. Sandalwood: Relieves depression and nervous tension. Heals dry & chapped skin. Plays an important part in Ayurveda, the Indian system of healing.

12. Tea Tree: Stimulates scalp circulation. Strong antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, fungicidal properties.

13. Ylang Ylang: Used to alleviate a variety of hair and skin complaints. In Victorian times, the oil was used in Macassar oil - a hair treatment. Also acts as an anti-depressant.

Step 3: Take Gentle Care of your Growing Hair

Now that we've discussed what it takes to grow healthy, long hair, it's time to discuss how to pamper the hair you already have to ensure it's in top condition.

As we discussed before, hair is technically "dead" -- But that doesn't mean you can treat it poorly or simply ignore it. Dr. George Michael, a world-renowned long hair care expert, said long hair needed to be treated like "fine, old lace."

That's because the longer your hair is, the older it is and the gentler the care it requires.

There are ways to smooth the scales on the hair shaft to make it appear shiny and healthy. There are also ways to properly hydrate your hair and fill in the damaged gaps to make it appear thick and bouncy. It all depends on what you put on your hair and how you treat it.

Shampoo

Shampoo comes from the Hindu word champo, which means "to massage" or "to knead". The main function of shampoo is to remove the sebum that the scalp naturally secretes, as well as to remove conditioning and styling products.

A safe shampoo for any kind of hair should have a pH of 4.5-5.5. pH levels indicates how acidic or alkaline shampoos are. If shampoos are too alkaline (high pH), it can cause the hair shaft to swell and damage the cuticle. If it's more acid (low pH) it can tighten the cuticle, helping the hair to feel softer and look shinier. Unaltered hair has a pH of 5.5.

All shampoos contain water combined with a detergent or soap, thickeners, detanglers, fragrance, and preservatives. One ingredient to watch out for is Sodium Lauryl Sulfite, a harsh detergent. This chemical is different from Sodium Laureth Sulfite, which is somewhat gentler to the hair.

Some people claim that using the same shampoo every day can lead to "buildup". You can tell you have buildup if your hair seems flatter and less lively than usual. If this happens to your hair, switch to a non-creamy shampoo for about a week. "Clarifying" and "Detoxifying" shampoos can be harsh and drying on long hair, so you may not want to use them for an extended period of time.

Shampooing Tips For Long Hair

1. Begin with a pre-wash conditioner such as Jojoba Oil or a heavy cream conditioner. Leave on for 20-30 minutes if possible.

2. Make sure the shower water is tepid, not hot.

3. Spread a capful of shampoo between the palms of your hands before working into your scalp.

4. Work shampoo into your scalp before wetting hair with warm -- not hot -- water.

5. Use the pads of your fingertips -- not your nails.

6. There's no need to shampoo the length of hair below your chin. If you must wash your ends, squeeze shampoo through, then rinse.

7. To prevent tangles, don't pile hair on top of head when washing.

8. Only lather up once unless your scalp is extra oily.

9. Rinse hair thoroughly, making sure to get out all remnants of suds.

Conditioners

Conditioners coat the hair shaft with ingredients that temporarily close areas of the cuticle and seal in needed moisture. They also protect against heat and environmental damage - until washed out. Most salon and drugstore conditioners primarily contain water and emollients (oils). The more oils, the more "intensive" the conditioner is. Watch out for lanolin and mineral oil, which are hard to wash out and can leave the hair looking greasy and limp.

Botanicals: Naturally derived oils and water extracts of plants that replace manufactured additives.

Emollients: Vegetable oils such as jojoba, sweet almond, borage, avocado, and olive.

Sun Protection: We use aloe as a natural sun blocking agent.

Vegetable Glycerin: One of the best water-binding agents.

Fatty acids: Lubricants and emollients that give the product and the hair a soft velvety feel and keep water in the hair to prevent dehydration in dry climates. We use flax seed oil.

Vegetable Oils: Leave a protective barrier that prevents dehydration. Also extremely emollient, providing good water-binding ability. We use jojoba, sweet almond, borage, avocado, and olive oils.

Vitamin E: May prevent free radical damage to scalp.

Panthenol: (Derivative of Vitamin B Complex Factor). Excellent penetration in to the hair shaft. Gives hair a more substantial smoother feel, keeps moisture in, improves movement, and imparts luster. Panthenol (vitamin B5 derivative) The only vitamin shown to have the capability to penetrate the hair shaft, panthenol works like most other conditioning ingredients, helping to boost hair's luster and moisture-retaining abilities.

Soy Protein: Plant proteins are attracted to the hair much the same way collagen is, with the same positive results. Plant protein can also help bind water to the hair.

Conditioning Tips For Long Hair

1. Thoroughly rinse all shampoo from hair.

2. Spread about a capful of conditioner between your palms (the amount will depend on the length of your hair).

3. Apply to the hair from chin-length down.

4. Use a wide-tooth comb to carefully distribute the conditioner evenly.

5. Leave on for two to 10 minutes.

6. Rinse conditioner out thoroughly.

7. Do a final cold water rinse to seal the hair's cuticle.

8. Squeeze length of hair to remove excess water.

9. Wrap hair in towel or hair shammy for quicker drying. Don't wrap like a turban -- this can cause tangles. Instead, drape the towel over your head like a nun's habit.

10. Use a wide-tooth comb to remove tangles. Never brush wet hair or it could break off!

11. For detangling and extra protection from heat and the elements, apply a leave-in conditioner to the ends of your hair.

12. Let your hair dry naturally if possible. If you must use a blow dryer, blow the air down the shafts.

A final word about treating your long hair gently. Be careful to avoid hair accessories with sharp edges or sticky elastic. These can actually tear or sever your long hair, which would make all the steps you've taken to grow it a big waste of time. Treat your hair gently from the inside out and you'll be rewarded with gorgeous long locks for life.

Ten Superfoods For Healthier, Faster Growing Hair

Good nutrition is extremely important for healthy hair and it's one of the first things you should work on if you're experiencing hair loss, excessive damage or slow growth. One of the best eating plans for hair - one rich in protein, essential fatty acids and anti-oxidants - was actually put together by a skin doctor to stave off wrinkles.

Dr. Nicholas Perricone's book, The Perricone Promise: Look Younger, Live Longer in Three Easy Steps (Warner Books, 2004), outlines the foods you should include and those you should avoid if you want great skin. The program will also greatly improve the condition of your hair, especially if poor nutrition is contributing to your hair woes.

The One Nutrient You Can’t Do Without if you want Healthy, Shining Hair

Essential Fatty Acids (or EFAs) are vital for healthy hair growth. In fact, EFAs have even been found to block the enzyme that creates DHT, a follicle-damaging androgen that causes hair loss.

Dr. Perricone, a certified dermatologist, is an expert at using EFAs to keep wrinkles at bay. He's considered the father of fish oil because he was one of the first serious proponents of fish oil supplements as well as wild salmon for supplying the body with much-needed essential fatty acids necessary for supple skin and healthy hair growth.

These “good fats” are called Essential Fatty Acids because your body can’t manufacture them. Therefore, it’s essential that you get them from food or supplements. A deficiency in EFAs shows up as slow hair growth, excessively dry hair, and even hair loss.Foods such as wild salmon, tuna, trout, mackerel, sardines, olive oil, nuts, seeds and avocado are all rich in EFAs and should be part of any healthy hair diet.

Ten Superfoods For Hair Growth

In addition to eating EFA-rich foods, Dr. Perricone recommends the following "Ten Superfoods:"

1. Acai: Dr. Perricone calls this Brazilian berry "one of the most nutritious and powerful foods in the world." Acai contains antioxidants, healthy fats, dietary fiber, phytosterols, amino acids and minerals, all of which are vital to healthy hair growth.

2. The Allium Family: This family of foods includes garlic, onions, leeks,

scallions, shallots and chives. They contain flavonoids that help the body

eliminate toxins and carcinogens. These foods are also rich in Sulfur, a mineral

that’s found in high concentrations in the hair, skin and nails. Sulfur, often known

as the “beauty mineral,” keeps hair shiny and strong.

3. Barley: Dr. Perricone recommends this low-glycemic grain for its high fiber

content. It's also a good source of Niacin, the B vitamin important for healthy hair

growth. Niacin helps improve circulation to the scalp, which can kick-starrt slow

hair growth.

4. Green Grasses: Wheat and barley grasses, blue-green algae, spirulina

and chlorella are recommended for their EFA content as well as their ability to

clear the body of toxins.

5. Buckwheat: Dr. Perricone says Buckwheat is even "better than grains"

because it contains more vitamins and minerals, healthier fats, more fiber

and flavonoids for circulatory health. Better circulation means more nutrients

are getting to the growing hair follicle.

6. Beans & Lentils: Dr. Perricone calls beans (kidney, black, navy, pinto),chickpeas, soybeans, dried peas and lentils "an anti-aging dietary necessity."

Without this rich source of protein, hair follicles can shift into a resting phase.

7. Hot Peppers: Hot peppers contain capsaicin, which has "anti-inflammatory,

analgesic, anti-cancer, heart-healthy effects." Capsaicin can help create ahealthy scalp with a plentiful supply of nutrient-rich circulation.

8. Nuts & Seeds: Nuts and seeds contain a plentiful supply of protein, fats,

vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals that are essential for reducing the

visible signs of aging, including thin, dry, lifeless hair.

9. Sprouts: The highly nutritious result of a seed as it starts growing into a

vegetable, Dr. Perricone says sprouts (mung bean, alfalfa, radish and onion) are

a concentrated source of living enzymes necessary for a healthy, youthful body,

including hair and skin.

10. Yogurt & Kefir: These probiotic milk products are believed responsible for

the longevity of the peoples of the Caucasus Mountains of southern Russia.

Yogurt & Kefir help maintain a healthy digestive system, which ensures anadequate supply of nutients to the body. If your body isn’t getting what it needs, your hair will be the first to suffer.

Foods to Avoid for the Sake of Your Hair

You’ve probably heard it before, but it bears repeating. If you want a healthy body, healthy skin and healthy hair, you need to cut down on your fat intake, especially animal fat. Animal fats lead to too much cholesterol in the system. An excess of cholesterol can actually raise testosterone levels and cause slow growing hair and even baldness. For the healthiest hair, your best bet is to eat smaller portions of lean meats.

An Excellent Way to Start Growing Healthy Hair

If you're interested in jump-starting your nutritional recovery for healthy hair, I recommend trying Dr. Perricone's "Three-Day Nutritional Face-lift." It's chockfull of protein, EFAs and anti-oxidants and will indoctrinate you into a new way of eating that's both delicious as well as great for your hair. You can find it here:

Remember that it takes approximately three months for any dietary changes to show up in your hair growth, so be patient and enjoy the benefits to your skin and overall health as your hair's condition begins to improve.

http://www.drperricone.com/3-day-diet.html

Longhairlovers Psychology

from Healthy Hair Secrets Revealed (2005)

by Jennifer Bowers Bahney

The term "long hair" means different things to different people. If you currently have a pixie cut, you may be think that someone with hair to the shoulders has "long hair."

At Longhairlovers, we consider long hair to be shoulder length and longer. We don't advocate that everyone grow their hair to their knees. Not everyone should and not everyone can.

There is a school of thought that says, "Let it grow -- the longer the better!" For some people, this philosophy works just fine. Women such as Diane Witt and Crystal Gayle are world-famouse for their extra-long hair. But I'll be the first to admit that extremely long hair can be unattractive if it's not well-cared for. That's why I advocate healthy long hair -- hair that looks stunning, not straggly. Before you can really begin your long-hair journey, however, you need the right mindset, or what I call Longhairlovers Psychology.

Commitment

The first step to growing healthy long hair is to make a commitment. So often when we go through life changes, we get the urge to cut off our hair for a fresh start, only to be disappointed with the outcome. We all know many women -- including ourselves -- who have cut their hair for a new job, before starting college, or after a divorce. There's nothing wrong with getting a hair cut, but make sure you're getting it for the right reasons. A hair cut won't change your life; it will just make you look different. Whatever you do, don't act on impulse. That means that before you submit yourself to the shears, ask yourself how you want to look in six months or a year from now. If the honest answer is, "I want to have beautiful, long hair," skip the hair cut in favor of a conditioning treatment.

Support

The best way to stay committed to your hair growth goals is to find a friend or support group that will be with you every step of the way. Start a long hair club at work or school where you can swap tips and hold a "measure in" to record your growth at the beginning of each month. Or join a social media group such as the Longhairlovers fan page on Facebook and Twitter. We all have weak moments when we need help getting motivated. That's why friendly support is so important.

Acceptance

Before you grow your hair long, you need to make peace with your hair type. Learn to love your curly, straight or wavy hair and work with its natural texture. Constant perming, straightening, and coloring can irreversibly damage hair, which will then have to be cut off.

Maintenance

I used to think that as soon as you decided to grow your hair long, you should stay as far away from scissors as possible. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Letting your hair grow wild will only cause split ends to travel up the hair shaft, making your hair look damaged and your ends uneven. There's no truth to the tale that cutting hair will make it grow faster, but regular maintenance trims and treatments will keep it shiny and swinging, and you'll be less likely to cut it all off in a fit of bad-hair-day frustration.

Hair maintenance can include highlights or color as long as you use gentle products and techniques. For people with hair past mid-back, I always recommend that they have a salon professional color their hair. Long hair is older and more porous, and may absorb color unevenly. It can be difficult to get it right yourself unless you really know what you're doing.

Highlights are a good option for long hair because touch-ups usually only involve the roots. This means hair that has already been highlighted will not have to be touched again, which cuts down on dryness and breakage.

Patience

Growing long hair takes plenty of patience -- it's not something that can be accomplished over night. As a general rule, hair grows 1/2 inch per month. That means that most people's hair will grow 6 inches per year no matter what miracle products they use. Instead of spending your money on magical claims, take the time to learn the truth about hair growth and care.

Investment

Growing and maintaining healthy long hair takes an investment of time and money. During the months or even years it takes to reach your desired length, you'll want to invest in gentle, top quality products that work best for you. You'll also want to be more careful when heading to a salon by telling the stylist exactly what you want done and how much you want taken off. And, instead of spending your money on monthly hair cuts, you'll want to pamper yourself with salon or at-home scalp massages, dusting trims, and deep conditioning treatments.

Your investment of time and money will pay off in a glorious head of hair!

Things You Should Never Let A Stylist Do To Your Hair

from Longhairlovers Healthy Hair Secrets Revealed (2005)

by Jennifer Bowers Bahney

It's easy to get talked into letting a stylist try a new hair cutting technique or a new chemical process, but these decisions should never be made lightly. When you know how different techniques affect your hair, you can politely decline before damage is done. If you are a stylist, please reconsider using any of the following techniques on your clients.

• Never let a stylist use blunt scissors. Dull blades don't make a clean cut; instead, they leave the hair with a jagged edge that exposes the cuticle to future damage. The best method for cutting or trimming hair is with very sharp metal scissors designed to cut hair.

• Never let a stylist use a razor. Some stylists choose to razor cut hair instead of using scissors. Razor cutting slices the cuticle into long, tapered sections that exposes the inner cortex and sets the hair up for future damage.

• Never let a stylist singe your hair. Singeing is a method of "controlled burning" with the purpose of sealing the hair shaft and supposedly preventing split ends. It's a technique that seems to go in and out of style and should be avoided at all costs.

• Never let a stylist perm or color your hair if your hair is too porous. Test your hair for porosity by putting a strand in a cut of water. If the hair floats, the cuticle is probably healthy enough to keep moisture from passing into the cortex. If the hair sinks, it's likely that the cuticle's scales are lifted and your hair is over-porous. If your hair is over-porous, don't let anyone talk you into having your hair permed or colored until it's back in proper shape with trims and thorough conditioning.
• Never let a stylist brush your hair when wet. Wet hair is in a weakened state because its hydrogen bonds are temporarily broken (they reform when the hair dries). It should be handled carefully and detangled with a smooth wide-toothed comb. Brushing causes tension that can easily cause wet hair to snap.

• Never let a stylist backcomb your hair. Backcoming (or "teasing") is a method stylists use to make hair appear more voluminous. They often backcomb before creating an updo to give the style more height. Backcombing is one of the worst things that you can do to your hair because it everely lifts the cuticles and leaves them vulnerable the next time you comb your hair. There is no way to repair backcombed hair, so be sure to avoid this technique.

• Never let a stylist use excessive heat on your hair. It's perfectly fine to tell your stylist to skip the blow dryer altogether. It's better to go home with a damp head than to risk getting "bubble hair." Bubble hair happens when water in the hair shaft actually comes to a boil and tiny bubbles of steam form inside. The bubbles create weak spots on the hair shaft that can easily break. If you just can't give up your blowouts, try to cut down on using other heated styling tools like curling and straightening irons. Also ask your stylist for a series of deep conditioning treatments to keep your hair properly moisturized.

• Never let a stylist perm and color your hair on the same day. All chemical processes do some damage to your hair. Performing two chemical processes, one right after the other, is a recipe for disaster. The bonds that hold your hair together -- hydrogen and disulphide -- need time to reform after a chemical process. Your stylist should be able to give you proper care instructions (including conditioning) that will prepare your hair for the next chemical process.

• If you're growing your hair long, never let a stylist cut your hair when it's wet. When hair is wet, the hydrogen bonds temporarily break, allowing hair to stretch and appear longer than it actually is. The hair can appear to shrink when it dries, leaving your hair shorter than you had intended. Dry cutting ensures accuracy when length is important.