Porosity Is The Leading Cause of Hair Breakage

Porosity is the ability of water to get into and out of the cortex through the cuticle scales. Very healthy hair has intact cuticles that let very little moisture in and out. Hair with a roughed up cuticle that allows water to easily pass in and out of the cortex is over-porous.

  

A damaged cuticle allows water to swell the cortex, then to seep out when hair dries. This weakens the hair and makes it very dry, causing ends to split when hair is brushed, combed or styled. Once the cuticle is damaged, it will continue to get worse until it the hair breaks off or naturally falls out.

Keep in mind that longer hair is naturally more porous because the ends are “older” and have been exposed to more weathering than shorter hair. This is one of the reasons that longer hair may take color unevenly. (Professional stylists are aware of this and will be able to account for porosity to create even color.)

So, what causes hair to become over-porous? Hair becomes over-porous when the cuticle is lifted and permanently loosened, allowing the inner cortex to become exposed.

This can be caused chemically, through hair color and perms; mechanically, by brushing and blow drying; and environmentally by exposing your hair to wind and UV rays.

It may seem obvious that heavy brushing and overall rough handling can damage your hair. But exactly how do chemical processes do their damage?

 In order to permanently color, wave or straighten the hair, the chemicals have to get into the cortex and react with the keratin inside. This is achieved through high temperatures or alkaline lotions. They separate the scales and let the chemicals pass through into the cortex where they deposit color or change the structure of the hair. At the end of the processing, the cuticles close back up. But frequent processing or inexperienced application can cause the scales to remain permanently open.

Keep your hair from becoming over-porous:

Gentle treatment of your hair when brushing, combing and styling is always the first way to cut down on cuticle damage.  For women with shoulder-length and longer hair, and especially those who chemically process their hair, I recommend only using a brush when you absolutely must. Instead, invest in a wide-toothed comb that’s perfectly smooth.

 

Use the comb anytime you would normally use a brush: to detangle, style, or to “comb out” before bed. Be very gentle, and always start combing from the bottom of your hair and work your way up as you undo any snarls. When combing your hair, you’re more likely to take your time instead of tearing through it like you might with a brush.

 

That’s because a comb won’t slide through tangles, even with a lot of force, like with a brush. You have to gently work out the tangle, which is ultimately better for your hair.

 

Avoid soap-based shampoos or those containing sulfates. Soap is alkaline, which roughs up the cuticle. (You’ll see the ingredient listed as “saponified oils” of almond, jojoba, olive, etc. Saponification is simply the process of adding sodium or potassium hydroxide – also known as lye or potash – to animal fats or vegetable oils.) The result is an alkaline soap solution that swells and lifts the cuticle. On the chemist’s pH scale, alkalies have numbers greater than 7, while acids have numbers less than 7.

 

Hair is more on the acidic side, and has an ideal pH of 4.5 to 5.5. When a hair is placed in an alkaline solution (like water and baking soda), the cuticle scales swell and lift, leaving the hair with a rough, dull texture. When hair is placed in a mild acidic solution (water and lemon juice or vinegar), the cuticle is sealed, leaving the hair smooth and shiny.

 

Bleaches, hair colors, permanents and relaxers are all alkaline solutions that lift the hair’s cuticle to create the desired results.

 

In addition to roughing up the cuticle, soap-based shampoos also leave filmy deposits behind, which is why hair can appear extra dull after weeks of use. That’s why our great-grandmothers often followed their hair washings with a lemon or vinegar rinse. With a pH of 2, the acid rinses would remove buildup and reseal the hair’s cuticle that had been lifted by the alkaline soap.

 

Sulfates are detergents that can strip the hair of its natural oils. (Two common sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium laureth sulfate). Look instead for shampoos with gentle surfactants made from amino acids, fatty acids and sugar. Words to look for on the label include Alkyl Polyglucosides, Sucrose, Polyglucose and Glutamate.

• Use conditioners containing proteins (Silk Protein, Wheat Protein, etc.) which fill in cuticle gaps and prevent excess moisture from seeping into and out of the cortex.
• If you don’t know what you’re doing, have a professional stylist color or perm your hair. Professional stylists know the chemicals they’re working with and how long to leave each one on. A professional can also tell you if your hair is healthy enough to receive a chemical process (see Secret #1) or if you should work on its condition first.  If you prefer to color or perm at home, be sure to follow the directions exactly to prevent excessive damage.
• Ask your stylist to use a temporary hair color or a semi-permanent texturizer to create soft waves. (ISO Nexture  is a new “semi-permanent styling texture treatment” that makes hair wavy and lasts up to 20 shampoos.) Temporary procedures are gentler to the hair because they don’t permanently alter the hair’s structure inside the cortex.
• Remember, you can’t heal split ends. The only way to get rid of them is to trim them off with very sharp scissors. If you choose to trim your split ends yourself, invest in a pair of professional-grade scissors from a beauty supply store to ensure a clean cut. If you don’t have time to trim, you can give the impression of healthy ends by applying a silicone serum that temporarily “glues” the frayed ends together. The effect will disappear, though, with your next shampoo.